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Turbo Cleaning and Turbo Cleaners
by Andy Published on Friday, August 19th, 2022
Not a week passes without us being asked by a customer or repair garage to recommend a solution for sticky turbocharger vanes on diesel engines.
While turbochargers offer enhanced performance for petrol and diesel vehicles, they’re not without problems. One of those is maintenance and cleaning – carbon can build up over time and use, threatening the turbo’s operation and other post-combustion components in the engine.
Understanding the Situation:
Let’s address why turbochargers clog up or accumulate deposits. A turbo is essentially driven by exhaust gases. These gases result from the combustion process and contain particulates, hydrocarbons, and even oil that have entered the system. What happens is that these particulates build up on the hot side of the turbo. The carbon can also build up on the wastegate, which creates problems for the turbo actuator in controlling the boost. The wastegate can then stick, which means the solenoid that controls the actuator is affected because it’s trying to draw more current than it’s designed for. The ECU picks up this condition and throws a warning light, putting the vehicle in limp mode.
The most common issue with turbos on diesel engines is carbon accumulation on the variable vanes mechanism, resulting in sticking vanes or complete seizure. This creates either an under-boost or over-boost condition, usually resulting in an engine warning light and tripping the limp home mode, restricting the vehicle to low power and sub 2.5k RPM.
Why do turbochargers accumulate deposits in the first place?
1. Accumulated deposits in the fuel system and combustion area will result in lower-quality combustion, resulting in additional hydrocarbons that will deposit in the post-combustion regions, such as the turbocharger.
2. Driving styles and types of journeys. Stop-start driving and short trips will take their toll as the engine cannot reach sufficient temperature to optimize combustion quality and help burn off existing carbon deposits. More hydrocarbons are produced while the engine is in its warm-up cycle.
3. Oil – this is the missing link. Many believe that post-combustion carbonaceous deposits are the result of un-combusted fuel only. This is not true. In diesel vehicles especially, the carbon is a mix of fuel AND oil. Oil bypassing the piston rings will end up in the combustion chamber, will not be fully combusted, and will end up deposited in the post-combustion areas such as the turbo, DPF, EGR, etc. Oil recirculating from the crankcase breather system can also deposit within the intake system.
From the above, you can see that there are several contributory factors.
Turbo Carbon Removal:
If you are unfortunate enough to have a turbo diagnosed with excessive carbon build-up, several options are available. Firstly, politely decline any suggestion that the turbo must be replaced unless the unit is proven faulty, damaged, or excessively worn. Excessive carbon does not fall into any of these categories.
Addressing the cause and any remedial work or treatments is equally important. It’s pointless tackling the carbon on the turbo directly without ensuring the fuel system runs efficiently because the chances are high that the turbo will accumulate more carbon immediately after cleaning if the fuel system isn’t clean and operating correctly. I repeatedly hear of garages replacing turbos only for the same problem to reoccur shortly after with the newly replaced unit. This may be profitable for the garage but not cost-effective or convenient for the customer.
Therefore, to resolve this issue, you first need to ensure the fuel system is clean and operating correctly. Various products on the market can achieve this.
In-tank fuel cleaners:
Forget the cheap cleaners, as these rely on the principle of natural cleaning through carbon scavenging. To learn more about that, read our article “EGR cleaning and EGR Cleaners.” These products clean the fuel system and improve the quality of the combustion process, resulting in cleaner exhaust gases. These cleaner exhaust gases, combined with heat, can naturally scavenge and clean the carbon from all post-combustion areas, including the turbo. This is somewhat effective, but you achieve the same results from a high-quality fuel system cleaner.
You could try a dedicated turbo cleaner if a fuel system cleaner doesn’t fully resolve the problem. Again, many products are available, but most share a common flaw – they are post-post-combustion catalysts that only address post-combustion carbon, leaving the fuel system alone.
The best solution is a chemistry that combines modern high-strength detergents to ensure the fuel system is clean AND fuel-borne catalyst technology to remove and burn off post-combustion carbons, such as Oilsyn CarbonCode DPF and Turbo Dr or Archoil AR6400-D MAX.
Products that utilize multiple detergents and fuel-borne catalysts that survive the combustion process and are still active post-combustion provide the best chance of removing deposits. If these don’t work, no other fuel-based turbo cleaner will make a difference.
This approach works about seven times out of ten, which is the highest success rate we have seen. Also, remember that heat is your friend, and occasionally dropping a gear or two to increase temperatures will assist the cleaning process.
If unsuccessful, the only option (besides cleaning the turbo in situ or removing it) is to try an aerosol-based cleaner sprayed into the air intake. The good ones contain a blend of chemicals, some of which survive the combustion process and reach the turbo. They are best used when the engine is cold as more product will reach the turbo.
Only turbos severely seized with a combination of solidified fuel and oil-based carbonaceous deposits may not respond to these treatments. In these cases, the only solution is to remove the turbo for manual cleaning.
Prevention and maintenance:
Carrying out the below will provide the best possible chance of preventing deposit build-up and potential turbocharger malfunction.
1. Keep the fuel system and combustion area running efficiently by using a regular high-quality fuel conditioner such as Oilsyn Diesel Power/Race DNA or Archoil AR6900-D MAX. These will improve combustion quality and reduce the amount of recirculating hydrocarbons, even when the engine is cold.
2. Use the best quality oil possible or, at the very least, fortify it with an additive such as Oilsyn Velosyn, Archoil AR9200, or AR9400. Not only will this protect the turbo against wear, but it will keep the crankcase clean, maintain engine compression (this reduces oil bypassing the piston rings), and help prevent adhesion within the intake system, turbo, and EGR even if it does bypass the rings or crankcase breather system.
3. If you suspect a reduction of cylinder compression, use a professional engine flush or advanced cleaner such as Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush or Power Cleaner, followed by an oil change. It is often postulated that compression loss results from engine (piston/rings/cylinder) wear. This is not always the case. Most compression loss conditions result from deposit build-up on the piston rings and skirts. The build-up then forces the rings from the bore and thus reduces engine compression. A professional flush will resolve this quickly and effectively. A high-quality oil and additive pack will help prevent any future deposit build-up or compression loss.
4. Occasionally drop down a gear or two to increase the revs and thus increase the temperature. Heat is your best friend when it comes to removing carbon. This is also important when using any fuel additives as it will enhance the efficacy of the cleaning chemistry.
Many fully synthetic oils with low SAP or ash content designed for DPF-equipped vehicles do not have sufficient quality or additive strength to keep the turbo well lubricated for the extended oil drain cycles. Some are supposedly designed to last up to and beyond 20,000 miles. However, from our experience and oil analysis, these oils struggle long before that mileage is reached.
I recommend researching your engine and vehicle to understand the turbocharger’s susceptibility to failure or deposit accumulation. If there are documented cases of either of these, we advise that you use the appropriate lubricants and additives to ensure your vehicle does not encounter the same problems.
Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need further advice.
Oilsyn and Archoil products can be purchased from http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk
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Hello,
I have a question about cleaning my turbo. I have a 2016 Infiniti Q50 that just hit 90,000 miles. The check engine light is on. The code is P2563 – Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor ‘A’ Circuit Range/Performance. This “indicates the PCM detected the turbocharger boost control position sensor A signal was not within acceptable limits.
The symptom is when the car is started with the engine cold, a traction control icon is illuminated and the car goes into limp mode. However, if you warm up the engine 4 or 5 minutes, then turn it off for a moment and restart it, the icon disappears and the engine runs normally. This has been the case for months.
Based on my research, it appears that there is a reasonable chance that the problem is due to carbon build up in the turbo which is causing the vane not to move freely when the engine is cold and causing the Code P2563.
I had a fuel system cleaning done a couple of days ago to see if that would help. Afterwards, I had the shop turn off the check engine light. I was able to drive 62 miles, with no check engine light, to a place to get the car inspected and the oil changed. The vehicle passed inspection! However, the next morning when I started the car the check engine light and traction control light illuminated and the car went back into limp mode again and I had to do the usual routine. Before the light came back on I was encouraged that I was able to drive 71 miles with no check engine light.
I am trying to determine if the cause of the problem is due to a defective turbo or a problem with carbon build up in the turbo. I brought the car to Infiniti and spoke with a service manager. He looked in the computer and saw that there is a known Turbo issue with 2016 and 2017 Q50’s. Based on the symptoms he assumed that the turbo likely needs replaced, even though he admitted that it usually happens after 140,000 miles, not 90,000 miles as with my vehicle. The quote for replacing the Turbo was $8,200!
I want to rule out carbon build up. Your articles, such as, this one and “EGR Cleaning and EGR Cleaners” are very informative. But the fuel system cleaners, oil additives, and fuel additives recommended in these articles do not appear to be available in the United States. This includes Oilsyn DPF & Turbo Dr and Archoil AR6400-P. Can you recommend quality cleaners for a petro motor that are available in the United States please? Also, I would appreciate any recommendations you may have to resolve and diagnose my turbo issue. Thank you!
Try any reputable turbo cleaner you can get your hands on and see if that provides temporary relief, even if only short term. If it helps then that would point to a carbon issue. If not then I would troubleshoot various areas like the MAP sensor, actuator control valve, etc. Also, check for any air leaks in the vacuum hoses around the area.
Hi Andy
My Peugeot RCZ 2.0 HDI has gone into limp mode after a major service by the agents in South Africa. They say it’s the actuator that is stuck and the turbo needs to be replaced because the turbo and actuator come as one part. Would an additive have any chance of loosening the actuator?
Always worth trying as a process of elimination. Try and find a reputable fuel system cleaner that also contains a turbo cleaning function.
i have volvo c30 that had a blocked dpf black smoke from turbo on high revs, dpf done boost problem when going over 70mph done the pipes etc thinking of using cleaner you recommend in fuel tank cant do any harm, your thread is easy to follow. what spray cleaner do you recommend if fuel cleaner isnt upto it
walter
Find a garage that can flush the DPF directly through the pressure differential sensor.
I have error code P0299 turbo underboost, would an additive help?
I had a visual Inspection while turbo on the car and they said it’s either the vanes or actuator and I need a new turbo for £750.
It may depending on the severity of the build-up. I would recommend AR6400-D MAX.
I have a new EUro6d temp Diesel from Fiat with Adblue.
Bought the car new – so I can take care from it from the beginning.
After reading some articles on here:
If I start to optimize the fuel from the beginning on – do I even need to use 6400 D-Max? Does it benefit using it every 5000 or 10000 or 15000 miles when 6900 DMax is used regularly from the beginning on?
What’s the difference between 6900DMax and Hybrogen Road?
Just use AR6900-D MAX. No need for AR6400-D. The difference between AR6900-D MAX and Hybrogen is answered here https://www.fueltechexperts.com/difference-between-hybrogen-and-ar6900-d/
Hi Andy.
Could I ask you two, separate, questions in one please?
I have a Mk5 VW Golf 2.0L Diesel (140Bhp / BKD) with 163000 miles. It’s got a full service history with a VW Independent.
On your advice, I got a new (recon) Turbo as the vanes were sticking on the old one, causing overboost.
1st Q: When/how often should I start using some sort of cleaner to keep the recon turbo in good condition (every 5k/10k…?) and also, do you recommend a particular product?
2nd Q: I’d also like to try something to clean the fuel system/injectors. I only know of Redex – is that any good or do you recommend something else?
Many thanks and all the best,
Tony.
Hi,
may I ask for your opinion on the issue I’m having with my Alfa Romeo 159, 2.0 diesel engine (170hp)? I’m getting an error code P2563 Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance. The issue appeared on several occasions when driving in 6th gear on the highway at 160 km/h for a longer period of time (30 min). So far I replaced the MAP sensor and had EGR cleaned up mechanically but I still have the same issue.
My next step is to clean the turbocharger using spray or fuel additives.
What would you recommend, any thoughts on this issue?
Regards,
Alen
Most likely turbo vanes sticking. Try a fuel based turbo cleaner to see if that helps. If it doesn’t then use an aerosol based cleaner.
Hi Andy- what aerosol-based cleaner would you recommend? I’m having trouble ordering the Wynn’s version here in the United States for some reason. Alternatively- could I use one of the fuel additive cleaners and spray it with a spray bottle into the air intake (cold side) of the turbo while it is at a high idle?
I think CRC offer a cleaner there. I would try that.
Hi Andy.
Sorry to trouble you so close to Christmas, but I hope you can help.
I have a 57 plate VW Golf, MK5, 2L diesel BKD (PD) engine, with 160k miles – totally bog standard 140Bhp that has been properly/regularly serviced all it’s life by a trusted independent VW specialist.
It is starting to overboost and has done it about 15 times over the last 4 months, usually on the same hill. An ‘Italian tune up’ sometimes helps to delay the limp mode, but it always comes back.
My garage recommends a new/recon turbo, so I looked online and heard about using Mr Muscle, Terraclean, Forte, Wynns… and then I found your site.
What do you suggest I try before going down the recon turbo route?
Many thanks and all the best,
Tony.
With that mileage a recon turbo is likely the most sensible option.
Sorry for the delay in replying!
Thank you so much for your advice… which I followed and am well happy with the results.
Out of interest, when/how often should I start using some sort of cleaner to keep the turbo in good condition (every 5k/10k…?) and do you recommend a particular product?
I’d also like to try something to clean the fuel system. I only know Redex – is that any good or do you recommend something else?
Many thanks and all the best,
Tony.
HI, I HAVE A MK6 GOLF GTI, THAT HAS NO ISSUES BUT HAS 94K ON I’M KEEN ON THE IDEA OF A FUEL SYSTEM CLEAN, INCLUDING THE INJECTORS. I WOULD BE GRATEFUL FOR YOUR ADVICE ON THE BEST OPTION AVAILABLE FOR MY GOLF MANY THANKS
I would recommend AR6400-D MAX.
Hi, I have a 2008 Ford smax 2.0tdci that keeps going in to limp mode whilst accelerating. Previously I have had turbo, egr valve, glow plugs and various sensors replaced which cures it for a while but it then returns. The car also runs a bit lumpy. Could you please recomend a product for me to try that might help with the situation??
If you haven’t used a fuel cleaner then I would recommend AR6400-D as a process of elimination. If that doesn’t resolve it then it would require further investigation.
Hi must say great site,I have BMW X5 E53 sport 30D BMW say not to use any addertives in fuel or oil as it can cause damage, what is your advice on this thanks Chris
I would recommend reading our article here https://www.fueltechexperts.com/are-fuel-additives-safe/
I have a turbo problem heavy grey smoke from exhaust and a whining noise when accelerator is pushed down plus loss of power. I want to try a fuel additive as my Audi is diesel but I’m losing oil so scared to drive it as it could result in seizing my engine. Any advice for me?
I would recommend a having the car checked by a professional as that could be the signs of a failing turbo. No additive will help if that is the case.
Hi Andy,
Have turbo switching off on my V70 2009 2.0d 136 bhp. It started about a month ago, not often at first but almost every time car is driven now.
I’vw come about your blog and read about Archoil AR6400-D MAX. I’m planing on giving it a go as it is cheaper than removal/replacement of turbo.
I have one question:
Instructions say to add it to empty tank and fill up with diesel. If i just filled up can I still add it or should I wait to another fill up in about a month time?
Also what is your view on the way of cleaning turbo as in the video https://youtu.be/PbUAfzi5BdM
Hi, it doesn’t have to be added to an empty tank. Just ensure you fill up (or top up) immediately after adding the product. There are many effective direct-contact carbon cleaners and it is arguably the most effective way to clean. The concern is 1. Accessibility and 2. Ensuring product does not fall back into the exhaust manifold. If 1 is fine and 2 is controlled then manual cleaning is the way to go.
Hello, great write up. Would like to try out these products. My car is a 2001 Toyota land cruiser, turbo diesel. Though I dont thonk there are EGR valves on these older engines (1HD-T). What would be your recommendation fpr proper fuel system cleaning, then turbo cleaning? Thanks. Dan
AR6400-D MAX.
Ford Mondeo 2008 I am experiencing jerking just before 2000 revs & a flat spot just after, I have tried two bottles of Wynns turbo cleaner on the recommendation of the Ford specialist that did a diagnostic, this helped initially but the problem reoccured as bad as before but without any engine lights appeeing, I am also only had a limp home once before trying the Wynns. I have purchased a bottle of the 6400 on the strength of this article. Interesting read, fingers crossed.
What were the error codes? Has the EGR been checked?
The ERG was cleaned when I had it serviced in July. The codes were P003A, P2566 & P2263. They thought it was sticking vanes & to try cleaner through it, like I said I have tried Wynns which seemed to be working.
Ok, AR6400-D should help. Ensure you get the engine up to temperature and as much heat into the turbo as you can.
OK, I plan to put it in before I take it for a decent run on Sunday, I’ll let you know how it works out. Thanks.
One thing, I haven’t had this car long & I drove it down to London from Scotland with no problems, it was only when I filled up to come home that the problems started, dirty fuel or coincidence?
Hi,
I have a 2005 3.0 Range Rover Vogue, it seems to be stuck in limp mode and turbo not kicking in. It hunts in drive but is ok when in Park. I have been told that the turbo isn’t working and could probably do with a clean…. You think this stuff would work?
Difficult to say without inspecting the vehicle. It will help if the issue is the result of deposits.
What do you recommend to clean turbo boost on a gasoline engine, along the lines of AR6400/6900d? 2011 Audi A4 quattro w/turbo. $85k miles.
I have yet to find a turbo on a gasolene engine that had sufficient deposit build-up to warrant cleaning. Deposits on turbos, including those contributing to variable vane malfunctions are only found on diesel engines. AR6400-P MAX would be the product to use to clean the fuel system and engine but the turbo is very unlikely to require a clean.
Hi Andy. Are your products available in South Africa at all please ? Many thanks. Daniel
Hi, email powerenhancer support and we’ll see what we can do.
My son has a Mitsubishi Outlander diesel that goes into limp home mode if he accelerates hard. The local agent says he needs a new turbo. He does do quite a few short journeys and I suspect it could be a DPF problem but I have given him AR6400 to add when he next does a long journey as this should also help if it is the turbo. Does this sound a sensible approach and is there anything else he should consider?
Yes it does. I would also combine it with dropping the revs, using the turbo etc. to help generate addional heat.
Thanks Andy. Do you mean dropping the revs but remaining in a higher gear to increase load? Does that make the turbo kick in? I think he would prefer to avoid limp home mode which seems to occur with higher revs.
I meant dropping the gears to increase revs. Do what you can. If it keeps hitting limp home mode then try not to engage the turbo but getting the revs up on occasion is important.
Thanks Andy.he is going for a longish trip this weekend – min 90 mins – so he will give it a go then. I’ll let you know what happens. Great service by the way.
He’s used half a tank so far but still hits limp home when accelerating hard. Might Techron D be the next step if the 6400D fails to clear the problem?
I have an alfa romeo 159 1.9 diesel.
The engine check light came on and the car went into limp mode yesterday with the fault code P0237 which relates to sticky turbo vanes.
Please would you recommend a treatment for this issue preferably without to much spanner work.
Many thanks
Rick
AR6400-D MAX and/or Ecotec Turbo Net Cleaner. If these don’t work then it will require removal.
I have a 2 litre 2006 Mazda 6. Since I bought the car 6 months ago it has always made a distinct whirring sound when the turbo was working. Yesterday I put some Redex in before filling up with diesel, and the car seemed to lose a power, then was fine again but kicking out a lot of smoke. Today on the way to work it was kicking out a lot of smoke again, and on the way back home the whirring sound completely stopped and there was a lot less power available like the turbo had died. Any suggestions?
Hi, based on the info provided it is difficult to diagnose. I would recommend a professional inspection.
When my turbo did that there was a hole in the egr rubber pipe
Hi…
Getting desperate. Have a bmw 320d E90 2009 LCi. Intermittent flat spot from about 2000 to 3000 rpm. Had replaced the intake manifold done carbon cleaning, changed egr valve (friends and his car drives fine), replaced MAF sensor and Decat. Usually when cold she is perfect then after about 10km the flat spot starts especially when cruising and then planting my foot. It would kick down a gear and at a snails pace crawl from 2000 to 3000 rpm. Pls help….
Have you tried any fuel cleaner?
Hi
Yes 1st tried some diesel injector cleaner and the a week ago popped in a bottle of wynns diesel turbo cleaner. Also had a friend’s Map sensor in mine for 2 days. Still intermittent. So wondering if it could be turbo related or even perhaps the ecu itself
Changed fuel filter?
Hi, my 2.2 diesel jaguar xtype is experiencing flat spots on acceleration. Sometimes, it’s quite rhythmic. Generally, the power is not what it should be whether it’s in a flat spot or not. Also, whenever there is a flat spot, you can hear the boost being blown off. Not seen any split pipes, no engine management lights and no fault code. It was suggested there may be a carbon build up in the turbo. Could this be the reason and if so, what would be most suitable to use?
Thanks
I would try a bottle of AR6400-D Max as a process of elimination.
2010 Cummings diesel 117000miles. Engine light is on. Engine scan indicates possibility some carbon buildup. Dealer recommend to drive it like no tomorrow to remove any carbon buildup. Still have good power and torque. Just the engine light comes and goes. What do you recommend to use to help fix this
problem. Thanks Dale Vandergriff
I would add a bottle of AR6400-D combined with the spirited drive recommended by the dealer.
Great article which I found very informative. I have a 2011 Renault Megane 1.5Dci with 53000 miles on the clock. I do motorway miles everyday (about 30 miles each way) so the engine is getting a good run. I don’t have any current problems with the turbo or diesel system as yet and would like to keep it that way, so what do you recommend? I believe it’s a vv turbo on these. Thanks in advance, Andy
Hi, AR6200 (now AR6900-D MAX) or other high quality fuel conditioner with catalyst is always a good start on those engines.
Hi Andy and thanks for the advice.
I have a 2008 reg 2204cc diesel Honda CRV currently at 96k miles. At the moment we are doing around 12k miles p.a. including around 1500 miles p.a. at 130kph on French motorways using cruise control. Three times in five years the AA have diagnosed turbo overboost. The last time was a few days ago when we were in France and about 60 miles from Le Havre port. The Honda dealer didn’t have a clue before so I’m not going to them again especially as they didn’t use a new washer on the Diff plug. Lubricant leaked 2 days before a previous trip to France!
Which in tank product would you recommend to clean and prevent build up and how often should it be used?
Thanks again.
Hi, use the best quality GENUINE synthetic (group 5/6 base stock) oil you can afford and continuous use of a high quality fuel conditioner that contains a catalyst such as AR6200 or the new AR6900-D Max. A catalyst will really help with that carbon.
Hi
I have a problem with my t5 2.5tdi…
It keeps going into limp mode on hills around 60 mph…garage had said turbo veins sticking….has since strated blowing the pipe off my egr delete pipe…is this over boosting? What’s my best option or should I just start with a cleaner in the tank?
I would start with a bottle of Archoil AR6400-D.
i have just bought a bmw x5 could i use a turbo cleaner
in my petrol tank to help prevent any carbon build in the future thanks
No, turbo cleaners are designed for diesel engines as they have inherent turbo deposit issues. Just use a high strength polyetheramine fuel cleaner and this will clean the whole system through including any deposits on the turbo, which will be minimal on a petrol engine.
Hi Andy
Great information on your site thanks. Could you confirm the description of the turbo on a Rover 75 2 litre diesel BMW engine manual 2001 model. Is it a variable vane type,and is it possible that the vanes might be clogged with carbon etc? Which would be your best product to clean this item, because the turbo range is from 2000-3000 RPM. What should the range be.
Thanks John Charlesworth
Thanks very much
John Charlesworth
Hi, although it’s the same lump as the then BMW 320D I understand they used a different (non VV) turbo. This will provide a smaller powerband. Try a good quality system cleaner first such as AR6400-D.
I am having trouble with my 2006 dodge turbo diesel. Over 100000 and has been to the dealer 3 times and is now in limp mode. The dealer drilled a hole in the turbo the first time. I assume it was to spray some sort of cleaner in it. Am i correct. What would be sprayed into the turbo? Thanks
Hi, possibly a solvent cleaner to remove carbon to free up the variable geometry. Use AR6200 and AR9100 to control further build-up. This combination is VERY popular with Ford Powerstroke owners.
Hey Andy, quick question. I have the dreaded over boost on my 2008 Octavia tdi 2.0 around the 4k rpm mark. Due to my driving style I rarely push the engine that much so i guess that’s why I’ve only just detected it ….and caused it. Anyway have added some redex to my recent tank fill and I have a turbo cleaner ready to go. Can I add the turbo cleaner to this current 50 litres already containing the redex or is it best to wait until I fill up again in a few weeks. In other words can the additives both be used in the sane tank of fuel?
Cheers
Steve
Hi, they really need to be used separately.
Hi Andy. I’ve got a Vauxhall meriva 1700 diesel. Everything runs perfectly, but recently I had a light come on (spanner) I was told it was nothing to worry about, it does go off for a while but tends to come on when I start the car. I switch the engine off and it goes off again. It comes on after a while, but not every time. But I now have a management light come on in place of the other light. That light is now on permanently. Any suggestions?
Hi, could be many causes. Really needs further diagnosis or at least the error codes read.
Thanks Andy, The issue I’m having is much the same as described by others with TD’s; there is a flat spot at 3.5kRPM then the usual huge boost, my initial thought was the wastegate or the fuel mix. I have some fuel treatment that I will use on a long drive and hope this flushes everything through. If not then I guess it’s back to the garage for further investigation. I appreciate you getting back to me, I’ll post back if I get it resolved as it may help others with similar issues.
Great website, I got really excited that this might help solve a boost lag in my VXR which I think is a sticking wastegate. It appears all the turbo cleaning additives suggested are for Turbo Diesel’s. Are they compatible with petrol or can you suggest another?? Cheers!
Hi, on petrol cars you don’t need dedicated fuel borne catalyst cleaners. A high strength polyetheramine fuel/carbon cleaner will clean post combustion areas. However, turbos on petrol cars seldom struggle with carbon build-up. I suspect the wastegate or actuator is faulty or become weak.
Hi Andy,
love your blog!
First off, please bear with my english as I’m German 🙂
I drive a Volvo Diesel (2Liter 5 cylinder 163 HP stock, mapped to approx 185-190 HP) and am experiencing some surges at high speeds, normally around 3000-3200 rpm. It’s like the engine or Turbo looses power for a split second and then burst forward again. I am also experiencing heavy black smoke on WOT at high speeds, or as soon as the engine revs passed roundabout 3300.
Everyone would say, it’s the remap. Problem here is, it did not do this at first, it only started after about 6 weeks. Off course the remap will put the engine to it’s limit, so hardware malfunction is prone to happen. I was aware of that risk. The car drives just fine in normal conditions, it’s only on the Autobahn passed 180 km per hour that I experience this surge. Acceleration up till there is pretty awesome and lacks no power.
I’m suspecting the turbo (Garrett GT1444VZ variable geometry) to be on it’s way out. What do you think? Are these symptoms plausible for a Turbo failure, or sticky VGT?
I checked for boost leaks, but everything is fine on the hoses, the intercooler shows no oil leaks.
Before dismantling the Turbo I want to try one mor thing, so I just bought the Bardahl Turbo cleaner. Not a cheap item, but if it helps my Turbo live a while longer why not.
I’ll let you know how it went, and perhaps you could share some thoughts what you think it might be.
Cheers!
Hi, I would check if the company that did the remap could temporarily remove it just to be sure. When a new tune is installed the engine will go through an adaption process so issues don’t always show up straight away. If they have the correct diagnostics tools then also ask them to carry out some live data-logging. You are looking for a significant difference between the boost pressure ask (what the ECU is requesting) versus boost pressure actual (what is actually being delivered).
Do the usual checks for split hoses, boost leaks etc. If it does point to variable vane issue then use a high strength fuel system cleaner first as itwill also help clean the turbo. Then use a dedicated turbo cleaner.
Is the AR6600 available to the US market?
Hi, it is only available in Europe. I would recommend AR6400-D instead.
Regards,
Andy
Hi Andy,
I am pretty much having the same problem as Al Pott above, but my OBD reading is P0234 for my VW Jetta TDi 2006 reg. The code reads ‘Turbocharger/Supercharger Overboost’. Do you think that Archoil AR6400-D Professional Polyetheramine Concentrate (430ml) could do some good to my powerless car? or should I go for the full Archoil Professional Turbo Cleaning & Maintenance Pack.
Regards
Vigan
Hi, overboost conditions on that engine can also be caused by air intake/vacuum hose leaks so have these checked first.
Providing the build-up is mainly fuel-carbon build-up then you have a reasonable chance with AR6400-D. If it makes a difference then AR6600 will provide an even greater improvement and increase the time before the problem resurfaces.
If AR6400 doesn’t make a difference then the build-up has too much oil contamination, which makes it very difficult to remove. I would be inclined to leave AR6600 and pursue a more invasive solution such as removing the unit and cleaning it manually.
Andy
Hi Andy, is thgis product available in Canada and where?
Hi, these are not available in Canada yet. However, AR6400-D and AR6200 also works well on turbos and is available.
Hey,
I’ve been trolling the internet trying to find information on why i am experiencing difficulty with my 2005 ford Mondeo titanium, and i have found your website to be very informative.
about a week ago I was driving and i started experiencing a distinct lack of power in the speed of the car, it still drives but the acceleration is really poor. i’ve also realised that when i press down on the gas pedal the engine becomes non-responsive from about half-way down, so I can get power out of the car pushing down about half way down but then anything after that just does nothing. Also hills absolutely kill the speed, especially on the motorway, sometimes dropping down to around 45mph.
I bought an OBD reader and was getting fault code P0402, which from what i could gather from the internet was a problem with the EGR valve. So i removed this and gave it a thorough clean as there was alot of carbon build up. i sprayed it thoroughly with 3-in-1 high performance spray to help do this.
I re-connected the EGR valve and only really noticed a slight increase in power, nothing massive. So after still not really knowing what problem was I went to halfords and was recommended a fuel additive to try and clean the system (Wynn’s Injector Cleaner For Diesel Engines 325ml) which again only gave a minimal improvement.
Still not knowing the problem I eventually came across this website which has actually explained things in layman terms, and after reading the turbo cleaning & maintenance page I thought that there may be a possible issue with a carbon build up in the turbo vanes.
After your recommendation on decent cleaning products I’ve decided that i should probably go all out and try and give my car as much of a clean up as possible to see if it works, i was looking at buying the Archoil Professional Turbo Cleaning & Maintenance Pack which contains the below products:
1 x Archoil AR6400-D Professional Polyetheramine Concentrate (430ml)
1 x Archoil AR6600 Professional Diesel Turbo Cleaner (430ml)
1 x Archoil AR2820 Professional Engine Flush (400ml Bottle)
1 x Archoil AR9100 Advanced Friction Modifier & Oil Additive (250ml)
1 x Archoil AR6200 Fuel Modification Complex High Concentrate (20ml)
3 x Disposable Funnels
I was just wondering if you knew the best order to use these products to get maximum effect.
Can the fuel additives be mixed together or do they need to be used one at a time?
do i need to completely empty and then add new oil as well as the oil additive to see the best results?
I apologise for the long-winded email, but any advice you can give me on this would be really helpful.
Hi, when cleaning the EGR make sure any periphery pipework leading back into the intake is also clear.
I would recommend using the AR6400-D first followed by AR6600 in the second tank (with 20 litres of fuel) and then AR6200 in subsequent tanks. The AR2810 can be used at any point. Use the AR9100 in with the fresh oil.
Regards,
Andy