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Oil Additives - Our View

by Andy Published on Wednesday, September 2nd, 2015

Oil additives have long been a controversial subject that haunts the oil and automobile industries, their respective stakeholders, and – perhaps most significantly – the consumer. Thanks to a fair amount of negativity toward oil additives, they have often been labeled as doing more harm than good.

Numerous studies have been published by oil companies, car makers, and oil standards organizations disputing the value of additives and exposing the so-called risks of additive usage in engine oils. There is so much speculation pervading the market, particularly in the Internet forums, that an automobile owner might become confused about whether it is necessary to use additives in their vehicle. This article attempts to regain some accurate context and clarity on this taboo subject.

Oil is a multi-billion dollar global industry. Two of the essential attributes of this industry are stiff competition and hectic infighting for the protection of vested interests. The engine oils these companies sell conform to various international specifications like SAE and API. The main motive with which these companies operate is obviously profit. However, it’s not a profit at any cost situation. The quality of the product is also very important because that’s what can give a company an edge in capturing and retaining a sizeable market share. So most oil companies invariably try to market good quality engine oil that optimizes performance and ensures longer engine life.

But – that all said – how eager are these oil companies to make the perfect oil? Do they make the best quality oil? The answer is undoubtedly a big ‘NO.’ Let’s see why this is so. First, the expression “best quality” is entirely relative. One oil might be suitable for a particular engine type and not so good for another. Moreover, there is no such end-goal specification, only set regulatory standards.

Research is unfolding new possibilities almost every day. In this highly dynamic situation, it is quite possible for an oil brand that is an excellent quality today to get replaced by a more efficient substitute tomorrow. Therefore, there is nothing sacrosanct about the best quality oil. Second and most important, oil companies would never make the “ultimate” oil, even if it was theoretically possible. Why? Because that runs counter to their business interests. Optimum quality oil can mean more shelf-life and less replacement, and this will obviously make their markets take a beating. It is, therefore, a natural conclusion that oil companies do not make – rather do not endeavor to make – the best quality oil. It’s in their business interest to promote marketing and strategic associations to earn more money rather than devote resources for quality optimization.

There are interesting examples of this. A well-known, worldwide oil manufacturer (renowned for their quality, fully synthetic oils) spends more on marketing than on research, development, and production put together! Another well-known petroleum supplier now owns the rights to Slick 50. Despite the many complaints and legal cases that have surfaced, and the brand has been notorious for tarnishing the oil additives market, this supplier purchased the rights to Slick 50 and continues to sell this product today. Why? Because it still makes money! For clarification, we do not endorse Slick 50 or recommend any PTFE-based additives for engine use.

The conglomerate of major oil manufacturers, standards institutions, and regulatory bodies have too much invested in the status quo (group III base stocks, decades-old ZDDP additives, etc.). And when you combine this with a market that is not yet demanding more modern (nano) additive technologies, many oil manufacturers have little interest in providing higher-quality lubricants. The latest base stocks (group IV PAOs, group V Esters, OSPs, higher performing additive pack ingredients, etc.) are currently reserved and used by the smaller boutique oil companies rather than the mainstream brands.

Stipulated specifications (ACEA, SAE, API, etc.) lead to many oils that are inferior by design. For example, improving the base stock or additive technology can result in oil that, although superior, is now “out of spec.” This includes full, mid and low-SAPS oils. Now consider the current ash measurement test. Not all sulphated ash is harmful to the DPF. Certain types of ash are beneficial and help diesel particulate filters catalyze carbons. The current ash test can only determine ash content and not differentiate between good and bad. This is a significant handicap to the engine oil quality for most diesel engines that require mid- to low-SAPS lubricants.

It’s not hard to accept that these oil companies make oil surpassing the basic quality specifications set by various accredited agencies. But it is not in their interests financially to far exceed these specifications even if given the freedom to do so. This means you are likely buying good oil that you can rely on for good performance and protection, but not necessarily the best oil for peak performance, protection, or deposit control. Deposit build-up is now a huge issue facing manufacturers and consumers, particularly on direct injection engines. Many oils are not good enough, and progress is hindered by having to abide by outdated specifications.

This naturally keeps one issue in focus – oil quality can be improved for optimizing performance, delivering peak output, reducing deposit formation in the engine, intake, EGR, and so on.

Engine oil has two main components – base stock and an additive package. The bulk of the oil – nearly 70 to 95 percent – comprises base fluid(s), with the rest being the additives. The additive chemicals add value to the positive qualities and minimize the impact of the negative attributes of the base stock. Base stocks are of two main types, petroleum and synthetic. Crude oil in its purified form is the petroleum base stock. Petroleum has been in use since the earliest development and application of lubricants to the moving parts of an engine. On the other hand, synthetic base stocks are made in the laboratory. Specific chemicals that correspond to different functions are used to meet performance requirements. Synthetic base stocks are thus very much use-specific. Although they came to be known in the 1900s, they started getting prominence in the automobile industry in the 1970s. Further information on oil composition can be found in our article, “What’s in Engine Oils?”

So, if additives are essentially in oil from the outset, why is there so much controversy in fortifying existing oil with additional additives? For one, oil companies are likely considering how profits would be affected by selling longer-lasting oils and realizing it’s not a good business decision. Second, some argue that additional additives would upset the carefully selected blend of existing additives.

In reality, selecting the appropriate constituents for the additives and their blending is very expensive. The end product would be costlier if the oil companies invested substantially to create better oils. Again, we return to the fact that oils only need to comply with the regulatory performance criteria in a given country. There is no general need for an oil company to spend money over-engineering an additive pack. Instead, this effort is saved for their more exclusive customers, like high-profile motor racing teams.

The car manufacturers create another blockage. They refuse to honor the warranty obligations if oils with additives are used in the engines manufactured by them. It’s profit that’s uppermost in everybody’s mind. When a car manufacturer makes an engine, they expect it to have a certain lifespan, on average. Their business is certainly compromised if they run longer than expected thanks to excellent engine oils charged with appropriate additives. So naturally, they would discard the idea of using such products that give engines a longer life than is needed.

Furthermore, unscrupulous individuals in the marketplace insist on selling additives that claim ultimate protection or unrealistic gains in miles per gallon. This is unfortunate as it has somehow resulted in the unreasonable deduction by some misinformed people – usually self-claimed “experts” that frequent the Internet forums – that if additives were any good, manufacturers would include them in their oil. The answer is they do, but usually in small (lower cost) quantities that leave much room for improvement.

From all this heat, one thing emerges: additives have a positive role in enhancing engine oil quality. And only intensive research by credible companies with limited vested interests can improve engine oil quality and find more cost-effective ways to improve engine performance and increase engine life.

Our advice is to do your research before considering putting an additive in with your engine oil. Check the ethical standing of the manufacturer and search the Internet for product reviews. We also welcome you to contact us directly if you require a recommendation for your particular vehicle or application. In some cases, and depending on your requirements, your chosen oil may not need fortifying.

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22 thoughts on “Oil Additives – Our View”

Nick Secker says:

April 15, 2023 at 10:44 am

Hi Andy, Loving using your products on my 2.0l ingenium diesel evoque with 9spd ZF. Question: can you use AR9100 Advanced Friction Modifier & Oil Additive in the ZF gearbox?
thanks
Nick

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  April 28, 2023 at 11:11 am
  
  We don’t usually recommend using additives on ZF boxes because the oil is designed to age with the transmission and the ECU adjusts accordingly.
  
  Reply
Laurentiu says:

April 8, 2021 at 11:15 pm

Hi. Can you tell me if Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Cleaner Longlife and Archoil AR9100 can be used at the same time?
I don’t want to have problems if they can’t be used together.

Thank you.

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  April 9, 2021 at 10:23 am
  
  Hi, those two can’t be combined.
  
  Reply
kim cromack says:

December 28, 2020 at 7:31 pm

hi just browsing on www and looking for something that will help with a g4 Picasso that shows smoke on start up only after overnight within a few seconds there is no more smoke using law saps oil and since having the car only 2 yrshave done 3 oil changes but car is close to 100k.reluctant to put anything in the oil due to affecting the oil ..it had a new turbo fitted 1 month after purchase cheers.

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  January 5, 2021 at 1:19 pm
  
  Use Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush before the next oil change and AR6400-D to the fuel system to clean injectors. If that doesn’t resolve it then it could be a leaky injector or turbo seal.
  
  Reply
Dieselfan says:

August 4, 2020 at 3:55 am

Hello,

I have a new Alfa Romeo with 1,6 jtdm2 engine.

I’m interested in using Archoil ar9100 oil additive. But I’m unsure when I should add it, should I add it right from the beginning or wait a couple 1000miles until the final break in is done?

Thanks,

Alex

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  August 6, 2020 at 10:26 am
  
  Wait at least 3k miles, ideally 5K miles before using any friction reduction additive.
  
  Reply
Terry Bridgeman says:

May 29, 2019 at 1:30 pm

Hi again Andy,
apologies for previous comment.
The number 2 key is a bit sticky on my laptop, hence a revised chassis no is: SGL5-115253 and the reg is: R254 JBA
Thanks

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  June 7, 2019 at 8:35 am
  
  I would recommend regular use of Oilsyn Hybrogen in with the fuel and AR9200 V2 in with the oil.
  
  Reply
Terry Bridgeman says:

May 29, 2019 at 1:23 pm

Hi Andy,
like others I find your topics an interesting read.
My vehicle is a 1997 2.5 diesel turbo Mazda Bongo (Friendee)
the vehicle chassis no. is the SGL5-11553. Reg.R54 JBA.
It is the 4×4 version. Current mileage approx. 100K.
Based on this information could you advise if any of your products could help protect the engine to give it some needed longevity.
Thanks.

Reply
JAMES WHITMORE says:

February 3, 2019 at 11:26 am

Hi, can you help, are these safe to use in my BMW X5 E70 3.0 AUTO?. Many thanks

Archoil AR6400-D MAX Professional Diesel Engine, Turbo, DPF & CAT Cleaner Concentrate – 400ml

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KQ1ALKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Archoil AR9100 Advanced Friction Modifier & Oil Additive – 200ml

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Archoil-Advanced-Friction-Modifier-Additive/dp/B00I2OTUES/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00I2OTUES&pd_rd_r=3728b638-27a6-11e9-aacb-21646b7c2766&pd_rd_w=w2aU4&pd_rd_wg=yqlYM&pf_rd_p=a0365e62-3353-40ad-91cf-d4ca762b18a7&pf_rd_r=VF95TKWVXCR3J6F9J7Z0&psc=1&refRID=VF95TKWVXCR3J6F9J7Z0

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  February 4, 2019 at 9:03 am
  
  Yes, they are safe to use.
  
  Reply
michele miele says:

January 21, 2019 at 5:01 pm

To all owner of a Jag, RR, RRS or LR4 with the aj133 or aj133s engine out there.
Do the OCI not later then 12000km and add to your oil Archoil ar9100. I did and was impressed.
You will be impressed how smooth and elastic your engine will run. No ticking on the valve train, no ticking on the VVT, no chain clatter at cold start up.
But all comes better….
After the car have sit some day, before using ar9100 at cold start up the engine revs up to 1600 instead of 2000 (the initial roaw). That means the engine cranked with more friction.
After 300km after poured in ar9100 under same conditions the engine started up by reaching 2000rpm.
BTW I use Castrol Professional Titanium FST A1 5W20 as suggested from JLR and change the oil between 10000 and 12000km.
Great products. ar9100 and ar6200.
I bought ar6900-p max and as soon the ar6200 will finish I continue pouring in the RON98 pump gas the ar6900-p max.
Since I started to use ar6200 the exhaust tips show much less soot.
The sound changed progressively in an sportier V8 sound as when the car was new.
FYI the car has 69000km.
Don’t use other products containing ZDDP. Your oil don’t because the cat converter. The falex pin test is absolute worthless for compairing additives. Be clever and do research.
Finally don’t forget the oil contamination caused by direct injected engines. Gas and Diesel.
No matter how good the additives in your oil are, the fuel diluted and soot contaminated oil will loose the lubricating and anti wear effect. With long OCI the risk of higher engine wear included timing chain wear becomes a seriouse problem.

Reply
james Moss says:

March 19, 2017 at 6:54 pm

I have bought some 6400 petrol cleaner and am wondering what the difference between this and BG44

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  March 20, 2017 at 9:53 am
  
  They are both high strength PEA cleaners but AR6400 also contains combustion catalyst technology to improve post combustion cleaning.
  
  Reply
Oly says:

December 2, 2016 at 2:43 am

Hi Andy.
First off…Thank you. Your articles are well written, presented with a logical, easily followed thought processes, and carefully considered opinions based on facts. Which is not something to be found in abundance on the internet today.
I would like to ask 2 questions if I may:
1. In older vehicles (e.g. 1964 VW beetle and 1983 Mercedes W123 230e) where the owners manual states a requirement for either a single grade oil or a multigrade 15W50 oil for the ambient temperature ranges I experience, is it beneficial/harmful/makes-no-difference to use a fully synthetic 10W40 oil? I don’t want to ignite a mineral base vs fully synthetic argument, but I have tried to educate myself about this and keep finding uninformed or illogical arguments for/against.
2. What is your considered opinion of using an oil-additive with molybdenum sulfate (MoS)?
Thanks again

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  December 10, 2016 at 10:40 am
  
  Apologies for delay. Fully synthetic would be preferable if the engine is race tuned (because synthetic base stocks hold up much better) or has been rebuilt to more modern tolerances. If not, then a high quality semi or mineral oil will still provide very good protection because most are packed with high levels of ZDDP, which does most of the work.
  
  Molybdenum is quite popular in engine oils and offers reasonable friction reduction and protection. However, as a standalone additive there are better options.
  
  Reply
Paul says:

May 5, 2016 at 11:10 pm

Hi Andy
Between you – I have found your articles written re-assuring. It has started to give me confidence that chaps like you are worth investing in.
I would like to have your advise on a recently bought 2005 Range Rover Sport 2.7 HSE TDV6 .
The previous owner clocked up 74k hence my purpose to buy. I have added 2k and find that the consumption could be better. I was advised to re-map but thankfully having read your article and guidance I need to do basic check and clean up first.
So ! – please please recommend your choice of:-
* Engine oil
and * Diesel fuel Cleaner
I value not having to replace the EGR’s and Turbos’s in the future.
Thank you
Kind regards
Paul

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  May 6, 2016 at 12:08 pm
  
  Hi, I would recommend a clean with AR6400-D, followed by regular use of AR6200 (now AR6900-D MAX). Can you email your reg # to support@fueltechexperts.com and I’ll check the oil for you?
  
  Reply
dean says:

March 3, 2016 at 11:14 am

Could you recommend a quality engine oil for my FX4 london taxi, fitted with a TD27 2.7 nissan diesel engine?

Kind Regards

Reply
1. Andy says:
  
  March 3, 2016 at 9:49 pm
  
  Hi, what is the vehicle reg?
  
  Reply

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