All posts by Andy

What is the difference between standard and premium (Super) diesel fuel?

January 16, 2017 Andy 7 Comments

I will keep this brief because it is straightforward.

Take any branded diesel fuel. What is the difference between that brand’s standard EN590 diesel and super/premium diesel, for which you pay an extra 8-10p per litre.

1. Higher cetane. Either by adding 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) cetane improver or using naturally higher cetane base stock.

2. Possibly additional deposit control detergent and lubricant.

That is it. Vehicle owners report additional performance when using “super” diesel due to the improvement in combustion quality from the higher cetane value. 2-EHN is the worldwide recognized and proven standard for raising the cetane value in diesel fuels.

What would your average diesel fuel conditioning additive deliver?

1. Higher cetane. By using a 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) cetane improver.

2. Lubricity additive.

Higher quality brands may also include the following:

3. Deposit control detergent

4. Water emulsifier

5. Anti-corrosion additive

6. Dispersant and antioxidant to help restore and preserve fuel quality

Other specialist additives can deliver the following:

7. Combustion catalyst enhances combustion quality further and helps keep post-combustion areas clean

8. Cold flow performance (anti wax/gel)

9. Biological contamination removal/prevention (biocide).

So what does this mean?

Virtually all diesel fuel conditioners contain 2-EHN or are 2-EHN based. Even the cheapest, lowest quality 2-EHN-based diesel additives will most likely deliver an improvement. However, we don’t recommend using 2-EHN alone due to its negative effect on fuel lubricity. Ensure any product you use contains an ester fuel lubricant and not fatty acid.

The average price of super/premium diesel is 8 to 10 pence more per litre or £5+ per average diesel tank. A 2-EHN-based conditioner that uses the same or similar performing ingredients and essentially turns standard diesel into premium fuel will cost between 1 and 3 pence per litre.

I hope that clears up the mystery.

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Fuel Saving

Fuel Economy Part 2 – What Does Work, Our View

February 4, 2016 Andy 1 Comment

This article concentrates on fuel-saving methods that work. It is based on common sense, significant testing, and experience. If you haven’t already done so, we recommend you read our earlier blog entry, Fuel Economy Part 1 – What Doesn’t Work, Our View by clicking HERE.

General Vehicle Maintenance

If you’re completely disillusioned with magic fuel pills, magnets, and other fuel-saving devices that didn’t work (as expected) or the miles per gallon (MPG) on your vehicle have dramatically reduced, don’t lose hope. Vehicle maintenance plays a crucial role in fuel economy. This is basic but valuable information.

Firstly, check your tire pressure. They should be at the correct pressure for your vehicle, assuming you are using the recommended size wheels and tyres.

If you are serious about saving every ounce of fuel you can, consider changing the tire brand to a good-quality, low-resistance tyre. The lower the resistance, the less the engine has to work, consuming less fuel.

Ensure your vehicle is regularly serviced. You would be surprised by the difference a clean air filter and quality oil will make. It is also possible to change the oil for a lower viscosity, which helps reduce “drag” on the moving components, but this should not be done to the detriment of engine protection, which is the primary function of the oil.

Engine Cleaning

Accumulating deposits on parts such as fuel injectors, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) systems, plenum runners, throttle bodies, pistons, and intake valves significantly impairs engine efficiency. The result is invariably power loss, rough idle, and reduced fuel economy. However, cutting through the tenacious fuel deposits is no ordinary task, and only the best cleaners make a notable difference. Therefore, invest in a high-quality fuel system and engine cleaner.

Remarkably, most vehicle owners wait until encountering running problems or very poor MPG before investing in fuel cleaners or conditioners. We have seen significant MPG increases from simply cleaning the fuel injectors and removing carbon build-up.

Oil Additives

Although we consider this a bit of a minefield, we would be remiss if we didn’t inform you that we have discovered small but tangible gains to be had from oil additives. Gains are not just from reducing friction but also from restoring engine compression by removing deposits from piston rings, cylinder bores, etc. A friend, a Metturugy Professor and researcher at Cranfield Univerisity, once told us that the most critical friction area is between the compression rings and cylinder liner.

These are safe gains, we might add, but please tread with caution as it is true that there is a lot of rubbish on the market. Do your research, but in the meantime, if you require a recommendation for a particular vehicle/application, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Engine Chipping / Re-mapping / ECU Re-flash / Tuning Modules

The fourth way to improve MPG is to remap the vehicle. This is achieved by altering the fuel and/or ignition timing and other parameters, such as turbo pressure, within the engine control unit (ECU) or using a piggyback tuning module.

Although results can vary widely, this can be a very effective and safe way of improving MPG if you know where to go and who to trust. Depending on the vehicle and the mapping quality, improvements of up to five percent can be achieved.

Driving Style

For our tips on how your driving style can improve fuel economy click HERE.

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Fuel Saving

Fuel Economy Part 1 – What Doesn’t Work, Our View

February 1, 2016 Andy 1 Comment

This article is Part 1 of a two-part series. Here, we will cover supposed fuel-saving products that, in practice, fail to deliver on their promises. We recommend you read this before reading Part 2, which focuses on fuel-saving ideas that work.

Oh no, yet another report on fuel economy. We understand how you might feel like you’ve heard it all before. But hold on, we promise you something different – views and experience from industry professionals and, perhaps more importantly, some common sense! Fuel economy, fuel savings, improved miles per gallon (MPG), and the use of fuel savers and similar devices are subjects we are regularly asked for advice on, hence the need for us to provide an overview of our experience on what we have tried and tested.

The results are interesting but not all that surprising. So we’ll give you the facts concerning fuel additives and fuel-saving devices and how they relate to MPG improvements.

Firstly, we will concentrate on fuel-saving products that have failed to increase MPG. We have either tried them ourselves or had access to independent test results.

Although it can be argued that the most accurate tests are performed in laboratory-controlled conditions, they are not always an accurate representation of actual life results, and most of our readers are not scientists. Instead, we prefer to test the various products using real-life driving and not dynameters or similar measuring devices. Besides, an attempt to prove a product works on paper as tested by an “independent” lab means nothing if the results cannot be replicated on the road, as this is where it matters. We use regular commuting routes to provide an honest assessment when comparing MPG figures.

The Mystic World of Fuel Pills

A company called Fuel Freedom International flooded the Internet with a “magical” gas pill promising ultra-high fuel economy. We tested this pill on our Audi A6 and Toyota for a total of five full fuel tanks on consistent, regular commutes. It resulted in a random fuel deviation of approximately +/- 1.5 mpg over the original MPG (A6 – 38 MPG and MR2 – 27 MPG), consistent with what we would typically expect, hence no gain.

The claims were further tested, but positive results were not forthcoming. The company’s explanation was that “the pill will kick in after burning several tanks of fuel.” But how many? Nobody had an answer. We considered five tanks for two months more than sufficient for our testing.

Another Texas company launched a hyper campaign promoting a fuel pill that could bring about almost 20 percent fuel savings and reduce emissions significantly when added to a tank of fuel. We tried this too and it didn’t work. Researchers also tested the product at the University of Texas at Austin and a Florida university. I know I said earlier that we weren’t going to concentrate on lab tests, but it is merely to make the point that the results were negative in both types of tests. Unfortunately, this pill turned out to be nothing more than a chemical equivalent of naphthalene. It had nothing to do with improving MPG; rather, it hurt engine performance. As a result, the company later had its assets frozen in a lawsuit.

We have refrained from providing detailed results on all the pills we have tried or providing details on journeys, times, MPG, etc. This is simply because there is nothing to report other than no discernible difference on our diesel or petrol test vehicles or from tests conducted by other independent bodies. We have not yet seen any scientific or empirical data that proves any of them work, although we wish we had because it would be much more interesting to write about!

Standalone Fuel Magnets

Unlike fuel pills, fuel magnets have been around for years. Manufacturers claim a “change to the molecular structure of gasoline by aligning the hydrocarbons” that, in turn, improves fuel efficiency.

Again we will not delve into too much detail, but needless to say, we tried and tested a variety of fuel magnets on both diesel and petrol test vehicles.

We can’t help but agree that the negativity surrounding these types of devices is founded. For example, a fuel magnet hit the headlines in 2005, claiming to improve mileage by 27 percent when added to the fuel line. This multimillion-dollar affair was investigated and discovered to be bogus. Later, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) sued the company, which then agreed to pull its ads.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) evaluated these products and rubbished their claims. Vested interests aside, if it had been possible to lower fuel consumption by placing a magnet in the fuel line, everybody in this cunningly competitive world would have done so, whether subjected to vested interests or not.

There are many other explanations of how magnets work in fuel lines. The “alignment” theory does have merit, but executing the process to “refine” the fuel is easier said than done.

The Problem of False Claims

Companies making claims about their fuel-saving pills and magnets is a global phenomenon.

An Australian company marketed a pill that promised to slash fuel costs by up to 42 percent. The Consumer Protection Department successfully prosecuted the company for false advertising.

For their part, the FTC endorses neither fuel pills nor fuel magnets. The blatant dismissal of all these fuel-efficiency claims is simply due to one fact – none of the claims are verified by unbiased research and/or controlled testing! All are based on individual testimonials, many being nothing more than words written by the suppliers.

But what about the many legitimate testimonials from customers? I have what we believe to be a reasonable explanation of this, one I have experienced firsthand. The most common explanation, and one that is completely valid, is that driving style, climate conditions, fuel quality variations, and other factors contribute to inconsistent MPG and fuel emissions.

Although these are vital factors, we believe there is a more significant underlying reason. Let us explain. One of the first tests I did many years ago with a fuel magnet netted an increase in fuel efficiency of nine percent on a weekly 600-mile round-trip commute for the first tank. The second tank earned approximately five percent and the third about two percent. Why?

After racking our brains, I finally figured out what had occurred, and it was a vital lesson. When you spend your hard-earned money on a product of this nature, you want it to work. This is a standard psychological phenomenon. It is human nature that people do not want to be wrong or proven wrong. Again, this is a psychological defense mechanism.

What occurred was that for the first tank, I was unwittingly trying to obtain the best MPG improvement possible and, as a result, ended up driving much smoother than I would normally. I would seldom reach excessive speed and would brake much smoother. The MPG improved as a result. I know this appears obvious, if not simple, but you would be surprised how many people do this without fully realizing it.

As I gradually returned to regular driving routines, the MPG gain deteriorated. I guess this does, after all, support a need for lab-based testing. However, since that original test, we have carefully ensured that we maintain our regular driving style during any future testing.

Blind tests are the perfect way to mitigate this issue. When advising fleet operators, we emphasize the importance of blind testing and treating fuel without notifying the drivers.

It is unfortunate, but it is the way of the world that “miracle” fuel savers are out to lure you with unbelievable claims. We strongly advise that you be realistic. We certainly are not so naive to think there isn’t much-vested interest in this market because there is. However, we are not gullible enough to believe that fuel magnets, fuel pills, copper tubing devices, air intake enturbulation gadgets, and other wacky gimmicks deliver as promised. Neither should you.

So with all this negativity, what, if anything, does improve MPG?

Click HERE to read “Fuel Economy Part 2 – What Does Work, Our View,” to find out.

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Fuel Saving

How to Improve MPG – Driving Style

January 24, 2016 Andy 1 Comment

Improving Miles Per Gallon (MPG) Via Driving Style

1. Don’t drive too fast or accelerate too hard. Wind resistance increases drastically with increasing speed. Studies show that every time you increase your speed by 10 miles per hour, you lose as much as 15 percent in fuel economy. So slow down and be a fuel-efficient, safe, and relaxed driver.

2. Try moving into high gears as much as possible without lugging the engine. When the revs are lower, fuel usage lowers. This means more economy for you.

3. Avoid accelerating when moving up a slope, such as a hill. If you increase your speed up a hill, the MPG will decrease dramatically. It’s best to maintain the same speed or allow the engine to slow naturally.

4. Anticipate stops and brake less. Every time you brake, you waste the car’s energy by cutting down the forward-moving force and transforming it into force acting through the brake pads. Accelerate slowly and stop naturally at the anticipated points by taking advantage of engine braking. Avoid braking at the last moment, which may force you to accelerate unnecessarily.

5. Don’t waste fuel by keeping your vehicle idling for long. Cars seldom require prolonged warming—in fact, it can do more harm than good. Prolonged warming can prevent a natural acid build-up from dispersing from the piston rings, resulting in increased engine wear. Driving gently is the best warm-up there is. When it’s 25°C degrees out, warming up for 30 seconds is fine. If it’s 10°C degrees out, a minute warm-up is OK.

6. Drive light. Removing excess weight from your vehicle improves your gas mileage. Any unnecessary items you can remove from your vehicle, especially heavy ones, will help you to save on gas mileage. For example, consider a roof rack. You waste about 5 percent in MPG efficiency when you have one of these on your vehicle.

7. Don’t misuse or overuse the A/C. When it’s pleasant outside, feel nature instead of shutting yourself in and burning extra fuel by keeping the air-conditioning equipment on. If A/C is necessary, ensure the recycle air button is on so that the A/C is not overworked by cooling incoming warm air.

While some of these seem like simple solutions, they are too often forgotten as we rush through life. By following these tips, you can save money and make fewer stops at the fuel pump.

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Reducing Emissions

How to Reduce Vehicle Emissions

January 5, 2016 Andy 4 Comments

All vehicles produce emissions as fossil fuel is burned and converted into energy. Unfortunately, like most other emissions, these usually end up in the atmosphere.

The damage to the environment and the planet’s population is evident. Emissions mainly comprise carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, and hydrocarbons, which create numerous problems. They cause smog, acid rain, and health problems and allegedly deplete the layer in the atmosphere that protects us from the sun’s direct rays. Personally, having researched both sides of the argument, I am not entirely sold on the arguments for global warming. But the damage to people’s health is genuine and does concern me.

Trace elements in fossil fuels have harmful effects, too. Sulphur and heavy metals cannot be eliminated entirely during refining. When fuel is not fully combusted, these emissions become a danger to health.

You can take steps as an individual to ensure that your contribution to these emissions is minimized. Poor maintenance and a fuel system and engine made inefficient due to deposit build-up are significant contributors to excess emissions. Using higher quality fuels and/or regular fuel treatments/conditioners can help ensure these areas – as well as the components designed to neutralize or capture emissions – are clean and function efficiently. This includes the catalytic converter and diesel particulate filters for most diesel vehicles that now have them. By tending to these areas, we can help keep harmful engine emissions to a minimum.

Ensure engine sensors, particularly those contributing to air/fuel ratio calculations, have not degraded. Dirty airflow sensors, in particular, reduce combustion efficiency and increase exhaust emissions.

There are cars available in the market today that are designed to be more environmentally friendly, such as hybrids. These cannot be ignored if you are serious about reducing car emissions. However, the actual benefits of electric or partly electric vehicles are widely debated. Some argue that the harmful emissions that are prevented are negated by the cost of manufacturing and later decommissioning the battery cells for these vehicles.

In addition to better maintenance and vehicle alternatives, behavioral changes also can reduce emissions. It’s a tough bullet to chew, but have you ever considered driving less? Why should you drive everywhere if you can walk or cycle there? It’s a serious point that we all should consider. Even carpooling or using public transportation can help cut emissions by having fewer vehicles on the road.

What do you do when you are caught in traffic? Most people just let their engines idle and continue using fuel to create emissions. The best thing to do is switch it off altogether. Car emissions peak at rush hour, so if more people turned off their engines, there would be considerably less pollution. BMW officials, for their part, are addressing this issue with their Auto Start Stop function, which automatically turns off a vehicle when it comes to a complete halt and then restarts it automatically when it is time to move. In time the problem caused by idling will likely become moot as most other manufacturers incorporate similar features.

While buying a new vehicle or walking to work might not be an option for you, there are steps you can take to reduce the emissions you create. And it can be as simple as keeping your engine clean.

As mentioned earlier, fuel system and engine deposits considerably increase car emissions. The engine’s efficiency is reduced as the flow pattern deteriorates on fuel injectors. As a result, more hydrocarbons are produced, depositing carbon in the combustion and post-combustion areas such as the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. This reduces efficiency further and results in even more car emissions. It’s a dwindling spiral, and ‘before and after’ emissions tests demonstrate the improvements made by cleaning the fuel system.

While some fuels are marketed as having cleaning properties, they don’t use fuel catalyst chemistry to prevent deposit build-up, even with the latest fuel-efficient engines. The answer is to use professional treatments regularly to keep the fuel system and engine free of deposits.

For more information on treatments to keep your fuel system and engine clean, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

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Oil Additives

Oil Additives – Our View

September 2, 2015 Andy 26 Comments

Oil additives have long been a controversial subject that haunts the oil and automobile industries, their respective stakeholders, and – perhaps most significantly – the consumer. Thanks to a fair amount of negativity toward oil additives, they have often been labeled as doing more harm than good.

Numerous studies have been published by oil companies, car makers, and oil standards organizations disputing the value of additives and exposing the so-called risks of additive usage in engine oils. There is so much speculation pervading the market, particularly in Internet forums, that an automobile owner might become confused about whether it is necessary to use additives in their vehicle. This article attempts to regain accurate context and clarity on this taboo subject.

Oil is a multi-billion dollar global industry. Two of the essential attributes of this industry are stiff competition and hectic infighting for the protection of vested interests. The engine oils these companies sell conform to international specifications like SAE and API. The main motive with which these companies operate is obviously profit. However, it’s not a profit-at-any-cost situation. The quality of the product is also very important because that’s what can give a company an edge in capturing and retaining a sizeable market share. So, most oil companies invariably try to market good quality engine oil that optimizes performance and ensures longer engine life.

But – that all said – how eager are these oil companies to make the perfect oil? Do they make the best quality oil? The answer is undoubtedly a big ‘NO.’ Let’s see why this is so. First, the expression “best quality” is entirely relative. One oil might be suitable for a particular engine type but not for another. Moreover, there is no such end-goal specification, only set regulatory standards.

Research is unfolding new possibilities almost every day. In this highly dynamic situation, it is quite possible for an oil brand that is an excellent quality today to get replaced by a more efficient substitute tomorrow. Therefore, there is nothing sacrosanct about the best quality oil. Second and most important, oil companies would never make the “ultimate” oil, even if it was theoretically possible. Why? Because that runs counter to their business interests. Optimum quality oil can mean more shelf-life and less replacement, and this will obviously make their markets take a beating. It is, therefore, a natural conclusion that oil companies do not make – rather do not endeavor to make – the best quality oil. It’s in their business interest to promote marketing and strategic associations to earn more money rather than devote resources for quality optimization.

There are interesting examples of this. A well-known, worldwide oil manufacturer (renowned for their quality, fully synthetic oils) spends more on marketing than on research, development, and production put together! Another well-known petroleum supplier now owns the rights to Slick 50. Despite the many complaints and legal cases that have surfaced, and the brand has been notorious for tarnishing the oil additives market, this supplier purchased the rights to Slick 50 and continues to sell this product today. Why? Because it still makes money! For clarification, we do not endorse Slick 50 or recommend any PTFE-based additives for engine use.

The conglomerate of major oil manufacturers, standards institutions, and regulatory bodies has invested too much in the status quo (group III base stocks, decades-old ZDDP additives, etc.). And when you combine this with a market that is not yet demanding more modern (nano) additive technologies, many oil manufacturers have little interest in providing higher-quality lubricants. The latest base stocks (group V PAOs, group VI Esters, OSPs, higher performing additive pack ingredients, etc.) are currently reserved and used by the smaller boutique oil companies rather than the mainstream brands.

Stipulated specifications (ACEA, SAE, API, etc.) lead to many oils that are inferior by design. For example, improving the base stock or additive technology can result in oil that, although superior, is now “out of spec.” This includes full, mid and low-SAPS oils. Now consider the current ash measurement test. Not all sulfated ash is harmful to the DPF. Certain types of ash are beneficial and help diesel particulate filters catalyze carbons. The current ash test can only determine ash content and not differentiate between good and bad. This is a significant handicap to the engine oil quality for most diesel engines that require mid- to low-SAPS lubricants.

It’s not hard to accept that these oil companies make oil surpassing the basic quality specifications set by various accredited agencies. However, it is not in their financial interests to exceed these specifications, even if given the freedom to do so. This means you are likely buying good oil that you can rely on for good performance and protection but not necessarily the best oil for peak performance, protection, or deposit control. Deposit build-up is now a huge issue for manufacturers and consumers, particularly for direct injection engines. Many oils are not good enough, and progress is hindered by having to abide by outdated specifications.

This naturally keeps one issue in focus—oil quality can be improved to optimize performance, deliver peak output, reduce deposit formation in the engine, intake, EGR, and so on.

Engine oil has two main components – base stock and an additive package. The bulk of the oil – nearly 70 to 95 percent – comprises base fluid(s), with the rest being the additives. The additive chemicals add value to the positive qualities and minimize the impact of the negative attributes of the base stock. Base stocks are of two main types, petroleum and synthetic. Crude oil, in its purified form, is the petroleum base stock. Petroleum has been in use since the earliest development and application of lubricants to the moving parts of an engine. On the other hand, synthetic base stocks are made in the laboratory. Specific chemicals that correspond to different functions are used to meet performance requirements. Synthetic base stocks are thus very much use-specific. Although they came to be known in the 1900s, they became prominent in the automobile industry in the 1970s. Further information on oil composition can be found in our article, “What’s in Engine Oils?”

So, if additives are essentially in oil from the outset, why is there so much controversy in fortifying existing oil with additional additives? For one, oil companies are likely considering how profits would be affected by selling longer-lasting oils and realizing it’s not a good business decision. Second, some argue that additional additives would upset the carefully selected blend of existing additives.

In reality, selecting the appropriate constituents for the additives and their blending is very expensive. The end product would be costlier if the oil companies invested substantially to create better oils. Again, we return to the fact that oils only need to comply with the regulatory performance criteria in a given country. There is no general need for an oil company to spend money over-engineering an additive pack. Instead, this effort is saved for their more exclusive customers, like high-profile motor racing teams.

The car manufacturers create another blockage. They refuse to honor the warranty obligations if oils with additives are used in their manufactured engines. It’s profit that’s uppermost in everybody’s mind. When a car manufacturer makes an engine, they expect it to have a certain lifespan, on average. Their business is certainly compromised if they run longer than expected thanks to excellent engine oils charged with appropriate additives. So naturally, they would discard the idea of using such products that give engines a longer life than is needed.

Furthermore, unscrupulous individuals in the marketplace insist on selling additives that claim ultimate protection or unrealistic gains in miles per gallon. This is unfortunate as it has somehow resulted in the unreasonable deduction by some misinformed people – usually self-claimed “experts” that frequent the Internet forums – that if additives were any good, manufacturers would include them in their oil. The answer is they do, but usually in small (lower cost) quantities that leave much room for improvement.

From all this heat, one thing emerges: additives have a positive role in enhancing engine oil quality. And only intensive research by credible companies with limited vested interests can improve engine oil quality and find more cost-effective ways to improve engine performance and increase engine life.

Our advice is to do your research before considering adding an additive to your engine oil. Check the ethical standing of the manufacturer and search the Internet for product reviews. We also welcome you to contact us directly if you require a recommendation for your particular vehicle or application. Sometimes, and depending on your requirements, your chosen oil may not need fortifying.

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DPF Cleaning & Maintenance

Your Guide to DPF Cleaners and DPF Cleaning

May 14, 2015 Andy 116 Comments

DPF Cleaners and DPF Cleaning – The Definitive Guide

This is the second iteration of this article. It has been updated to reflect the common problems encountered when tackling what are understood to be DPF blockages.

In this article, we will address the following questions:

What is a DPF?
Why do DPFs clog up?
Misdiagnosis and related common faults.
Reasons why a DPF cleaner may not work for you?
The correct logical steps to diagnose and fix a DPF blockage.

What is a DPF?

A DPF or Diesel Particulate Filter is a device integral to the operation of the exhaust emission control system. It captures particulate matter and hydrocarbons and stores them. Every so often, a regeneration process occurs where these deposits and particulates are burned off, converted to CO2, and vented out the exhaust.

Why do DPFs clog up? There are several contributing factors.

The first is the quality of the fuel. The second is the quality of the engine oil, and the third is the driving style and journey type. Diesel engines are not designed for short journeys or stop-start driving; such conditions create excess particulate matter in the emission control components. That means the DPF and other parts such as the EGR and catalytic convertor have more particulate waste to deal with.

The issue arises when the engine produces more particulate matter than the DPF can handle. Various symptoms may become evident such as engine hesitation or power loss. Eventually, an engine warning light informs you there’s an issue with the system, and if not resolved, the vehicle is put into a “limp home” mode, with reduced power.

If the system is clogged excessively, it is common for the ECU to prevent further regeneration. This is very lucrative for some dealerships and garages because, in their view, you have to replace the DPF, which can run four figures in cost. I can tell you categorically that the DPF can be cleaned unless it has failed catastrophically, even if it’s 100% saturated and the vehicle will barely run at idle. It can also be cleaned even if the ECU will no longer force a regeneration cycle with the help of diagnostic software. Furthermore, modern cleaning techniques and technology mean that the DPF does not have to be removed to be thoroughly cleaned but more on that later.

It is important to note that particulate matter that accumulates in the DPF is NOT just from the fuel and the combustion process. It’s usually a combination of those elements and engine oil. Oil can be blown through the crankcase breather system, but more commonly (on a diesel engine), it bypasses the piston rings and is poorly combusted. Those particulates then accumulate in the DPF. This is the reason you have mid-SAP and low-SAP oils. The theory is that such oils have lower ash content, which gives the DPF an easier life. In some cases, high ash content can damage the DPF because it cannot combust those types of particulates. Our experience differs from this as higher ash oils can prevent oil from being bypassed in the first place. However, that is a different subject for another day.

Resolving a Blocked DPF

Firstly, one of the most common mistakes is misdiagnosis. An emission control warning light or even a DPF warning light does NOT ALWAYS mean the DPF is blocked. This is much more common than you think, so do not assume the DPF must be blocked if your vehicle produces a DPF warning light.

For Example:

Emission warning lights are generally shared across the entire emission control system, so an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve fault or similar can be the root cause of what first appears to be a DPF issue.
One of the most common faults is that the Pressure Differential Sensor that calculates the saturation level and reports an over-saturation condition to the ECU could be faulty. In other words, the DPF is fine, but the sensor reports excess carbon and prevents a regeneration cycle. These sensors should be one of the first things checked, but they are often ignored. The result is an unhappy customer as the cleaning product or process “didn’t work.” It probably did, but the sensor is just reporting otherwise.
The ECU has identified the pressure sensor as faulty, which needs to be replaced rather than the DPF cleaned.

Secondly, and more important than the first, there MUST be an underlying reason for a DPF blockage if, in fact, it is actually blocked. The underlying causes should be established and, where possible, addressed accordingly.

For Example:

Fuel system deposits resulting in inefficient combustion can produce more carbonaceous matter than the DPF can manage. This can also apply to oil of low quality or incorrect specification. Is the engine consuming oil?
Driving style and journey types. Certain conditions must be met to enable the DPF to regenerate and manage the carbon build-up. Continuous low RPMs, stop/start driving, and short journeys that do not permit the engine and DPF to reach full operating temperature will eventually take their toll.
Other underlying faults, such as an injector or EGR issue, could prevent the DPF from regenerating. The ECU recognizes an underlying fault and “locks out” or prevents DPF regeneration cycles.
As mentioned above, the pressure differential sensor is faulty, misreading the level of backpressure between the front and rear of the DPF. The saturation level is only 10%, yet the sensor calculates 50% = game over until the sensor is replaced.

Therefore, as best as you can, it is essential to establish if there is a DPF blockage and if there is, or there is a high probability that there is, to identify the root cause(s). If not, you will be fighting a losing battle.

This is why fuel-based DPF cleaners and professional DPF cleaning are so hit and miss. Many users fail to diagnose and/or address the root cause correctly.

If a fuel-based DPF cleaner did not “work” then there is a good chance that the actual fault is not directly DPF related or that an underlying problem is forcing you into a lose-lose position. It is not always as straightforward as many make out, but I will make it as easy as possible.

Logical Steps to Resolving Suspected DPF Issues

STEPS	ACTION	APPROX. COSTS
1. Simple	If you suspect the DPF is blocked, then before you spend a penny on diagnostics or treatments, do this: Get the vehicle up to the full operating temperature, drive down the road and drop a couple of gears to get the engine revs above 3-3.5k. In other words, try to force a DPF regen.	Free other than the cost of fuel
2. Basics	If the above fails, you need to choose to use a fuel-based cleaner and/or investigate further. If using a cleaner, then combine it with step 1. It is a reasonable low-cost process of elimination. I would recommend a high-strength fuel system and engine cleaner first before using a dedicated DPF Cleaner OR use a fuel cleaner with a combined DPF cleaning function. A basic OBD / CAN BUS code reader can be purchased for as little as £10-£20. I recommend everyone keeps one in their car. If warning lights are visible, then the ECU will have stored codes, and rather than blindly guessing, you are well on your way to correctly diagnosing the issue or any underlying problems. If the codes indicate a DPF saturation issue, then this may be enough to justify using a high-quality fuel cleaner and/or dedicated DPF cleaner. The rationale for using a fuel cleaner first is that it will ensure the fuel system is clean (a common underlying fault) while also helping to clean the DPF by restoring combustion efficiency. Many fuel system cleaners and carbon removers also include catalyst technology that will actively remove carbon from the DPF anyway. Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need help interpreting error codes or advice on the correct product choice.	High-Quality Fuel Cleaner – £20Code Reader – £10+Dedicated DPF Cleaner or combined Fuel and DPF Cleaner- £20+
3. Professional Diagnosis – Basic	If you don’t have a code reader, then a diesel specialist will be able to read the codes for you, leaving you with the choice to attempt the fuel cleaner-based route should the codes point to a genuine DPF blockage issue. If the Technician has the correct diagnostics tool, they should be able to attempt to force a regeneration cycle either on its own or aided by an in-tank DPF cleaner.	Basic Code Reading – £20+Forced Regen – £30+
4. Professional Diagnosis – FULL	A full diagnosis should include a full error code check and a test of the pressure differential sensor and other emissions control components that can create an apparent DPF issue. Basically, you want to confirm if the DPF is genuinely blocked, and if so, why? Or the technician needs to identify the underlying fault(s) creating the warning lights. If it looks like a DPF blockage, the first step is for the technician to attempt to force a regen cycle via the diagnostics tool. This is by far the cheapest fix before professional cleaning or worse, DPF removal.	Complete Diagnosis – £60+Plus any remedial treatment/repair costs.
5. Professional DPF Clean	If other underlying faults have been ruled out, a DPF blockage correctly diagnosed, and a fuel system cleaner plus DPF cleaner hasn’t worked. A professional clean would be the next logical step. Our recommendation would be a professional DPF Cleaning Kit. These are professional use products, so you will need to find a participating garage. This is a non-invasive process and is fully guaranteed. The garage will require the correct equipment to reset the DPF and, where necessary, force regeneration once cleaned.	Professional DPF Clean £200+

Further information:

In many cases, using a professional fuel system and carbon cleaner to ensure that the fuel system and injectors operate without deposits can be more important than using a dedicated DPF cleaner. Not only will a fuel system cleaner help clean the DPF anyway, but it will eliminate one of the most common contributory factors (dirty injectors) that, if not resolved, will allow the DPF to clog up again soon after. For this, we recommend the new Oilsyn Diesel Dr and DPF & Turbo or Archoil AR6400-D MAX.

You can use a generic cleaner that relies on the natural scavenging and cleaning mechanism (as described in the EGR cleaning article), or you can utilize one of the higher-end cleaners that use molecules activated during the combustion process (catalysts). These molecules bond with the hydrocarbons in the DPF and reduce the threshold temperature at which they can burn. By far, the best we have tested is the Oilsyn DPF & Turbo Dr. It contains chemistry comprising of carbon-removing molecules that are activated during the combustion process rather than destroyed like most fuel additives. This type of DPF cleaner combined with a spirited drive (or dropping down a gear) to create more heat will help to clean the DPF much more thoroughly. In genuine DPF blockage cases, these cleaners have some of the highest success rates of any DPF cleaning additives we have tested, reducing the saturation percentage, removing the engine warning light, and enabling passive regeneration.

It’s important to point out that heat is vital when removing carbon. So, using such a cleaner for short journeys will inhibit results. You have to combine them with a longer run and a driving style that permits the temperature within the DPF and the system in general to increase.

Suppose passive regeneration is not restored and the cleaner is not working. In that case, the DPF is oversaturated to the point that the ECU will not permit a regeneration cycle, the issue has been misdiagnosed, or another factor is restricting DPF regeneration. DPF regen could be locked out by the ECU rendering the system inoperable. It is also possible to have a vehicle so saturated that the back pressure is restricted so much that it will barely idle. For this, the DPF needs to be cleaned directly by a professional.

Professional Cleaning

It usually consists of a 2 step cleaning process that must be administered by a professional. The first of this series is sprayed directly in the DPF through the pressure sensor hose. The chemical bonds with the carbon to dissolve it and prepares for the next stage.

The second step involves holding high revs to burn off the carbon for a few minutes, followed by a flushing solution administered through the same hose. This removes any residual cleaning agents and deposits.

We recommend finding a garage local to you for this type of clean.

Maintaining a Clean DPF

Once the DPF is clean, it’s equally important to ensure that the particulates remain at a manageable level. I’ve already mentioned the importance of a professional fuel system cleaner to restore efficiency in the fuel injectors. I’d also recommend an ongoing fuel additive with a fuel catalyst or combustion modification technology, such as Oilsyn Diesel Power DNA or Archoil AR6900-D MAX. They will lower the number of hydrocarbons created in the first place. They reduce the threshold temperature at which the fuel is burned even when the engine is cold. So, even from the moment you start the engine, you’ll be producing fewer hydrocarbons. This is critical if your vehicle is just used for local trips (shopping runs, school runs, etc.). It gives the DPF a much easier life and will reduce its tendency to become oversaturated in the future. We have many reports from consumers and fleet owners that their vehicles regenerate much less when using Diesel Power DNA. The key is to keep the carbon production at a manageable level for the emission control system, and such additives achieve this.

Excessive Oil contamination

If the engine consumes oil, then unburnt oil can contaminate the DPF. During the next oil change, use a professional engine oil flush to restore lost compression, such as Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush. As deposits build up on the piston rings, they push the rings away from the bore, thus allowing oil to bypass the rings and enter the combustion area. Once that happens, the DPF has to cope with an influx of particulates and more buildup.

Then use a high-quality oil and/or oil additive to retain correct compression and prevent any future deposit build-up. For this, we recommend any genuine synthetic oils (group IV or better) and/or Oilsyn Velosyn or Archoil AR9200 V2. This will keep the piston rings and bores clean and reduce the amount of oil entering the intake. Combine this with a fuel additive, and there’s no reason the DPF cannot outlive the vehicle itself without the need to use dedicated DPF cleaning procedures (invasive or otherwise).

I hope that helps. If you require any assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

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Engine Tuning & Mapping

ECU Remapping and the Inadequate Preparation

April 30, 2015 Andy 2 Comments

There is now a multitude of companies that will remap the ECU on your vehicle. In most cases, this entails plugging a computer into the diagnostics port on your vehicle that directly communicates with the ECU. A technician reads the existing file on the ECU and overrides it with a new file. The new file has on it adjusted parameters that alter several characteristics of the engine. These include the amount of turbo boost pressure (if applicable), the fueling and ignition timing (if on a gasoline vehicle), and other such parameters.

After remapping a diesel engine, the exhaust’s smoke increases, particularly on heavy acceleration. Where you once had a small amount of smoke from your exhaust, you now have a problem with a severe amount of smoke. Any underlying running issues can be exacerbated with an engine remap. One thing that surprises me tremendously is that many companies do not carry out a health check. Many remap servicers are mobile; they do not have the necessary tools, equipment, or expertise to precheck the vehicle. As far as I have researched, barely any of them ensure that the fuel system is running correctly and that there isn’t an excess of carbon buildup.

If you push the engine by asking it to work harder and produce more power, you must ensure that you have the best platform to remap and gain that additional performance. To guarantee this, the first thing we advise is to carry out a health check. Make sure there are no error codes. Then combine the remap with a professional fuel system cleaner and carbon remover. The fuel system must be running efficiently before you remap your vehicle. On a petrol engine, it is essential that the ignition components, the ignition system, and the fuel system are performing optimally to maximize the benefits gained from a remap.

Wherever you go to have your vehicle remapped or chipped, ensure the service includes the necessary checks. Also, ensure you use a high-quality fuel system cleaner, particularly if your exhaust has any excess smoke. If you have extra smoke, I strongly advise resolving or checking the issue before performing a remap as it is likely to make it worse.

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Engine Tuning & Mapping

Why are ECU / Engine Remaps and Tuning Boxes so Effective?

April 30, 2015 Andy 10 Comments

When one purchases a vehicle, they likely expect engine ECUs to be optimally mapped prior to sale. While they are typically very well mapped, it is subjective whether or not it is done optimally.

In this article, I will look at engine/ECU remapping and chipping and the use of tuning boxes. I will explain why remapping works and, in most cases, why it is safe.

With most manufacturing, compromises have to be made. ECU maps are no different. Yes, manufacturers invest a great deal of time in engine tuning and testing in the harshest climates. However, tuning criteria are designed around extremes that do not necessarily fit the requirements of the average customer or where the vehicle will be used.

Manufacturers must adhere to and comply with various legislative constraints surrounding emissions and other parameters set by the different governing bodies. As a result, this may affect the quality of factory ECU maps regarding available performance and/or MPG.

Many manufacturers produce vehicles in their range that, to some degree, compete with each other and, in some cases, even share the same engine. For example, a VW Golf may share the same engine as a VW Polo or a Porsche Boxter competing with the Porsche 911. The point is that it would be marketing suicide for a Porsche 911 to be considered slower than its younger brother. As a result, some engines are intentionally detuned or, let’s say, not tuned to their full potential.

Furthermore, manufacturers are obligated to tune vehicles for wildly varying conditions, i.e., -40 to +130 degrees or very high altitudes where the air is much thinner. This is one of the reasons why engines run rich from the factory. It accommodates dramatic climatic conditions that the average driver will never see. Even with the latest technology in fuel and ignition control, compromises on engine tune still have to be made just in case the vehicle is used in such conditions.

Vehicles need to survive the factory warranty period without fault. For example, it’s not uncommon to find an engine that is detuned for torque output to ensure that the drivetrain doesn’t fail. This begs the question: Why would anyone want to remap/chip their vehicle if there is an increased risk of a component failure?

Well, here is the point I am trying to make here. Car manufacturers must tune vehicles to cater to mechanically unsympathetic customers! This is very important. Drivetrains or engines (as an example) can fail when they are abused or raced from cold. It is this type of customer and not your average enthusiast that manufacturers are trying to protect themselves against, at least within the factory warranty period.

Furthermore, fuel quality is not guaranteed. Customers embracing remaps are more inclined to use higher-quality branded fuels and/or fuel conditioners, unlike the average user. Manufacturers have little control over this, so engines are tuned accordingly and with a little to spare regarding turbo pressure, air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, etc.

A combination of the above is why we see so many forced induction engines running rich from the factory. This and all of the above give reputable tuners the opportunity to liberate additional performance safely and improve MPG from engines under certain conditions.

If in doubt, stick with reputable tuners and tuning box manufacturers, as this helps ensure you receive a well-developed tune.

Also, bear in mind that even though normally aspirated engines can be remapped, the gains are minimal when compared to forced induction engines. It would also be prudent to notify your car insurance provider.

UPDATE: We were asked how ECU remaps, or Tuning Boxes can improve MPG?

With naturally aspirated petrol engines, mpg gains are marginal at best. Minor adjustments can be made to ignition timing and air/fuel ratios, but both power and mpg gains are minimal. This is the case with virtually all non-forced induction engines.

With turbo or supercharged petrol engines, power gains are usually very good with tangible but small MPG gains. MPG gains are two-fold on forced induction petrol engines. Many turbocharged engines run very rich from the factory under acceleration (open loop lambda). By carefully leaning out the air/fuel mixture under open loop conditions, fuel consumption can be reduced. This is more difficult with more modern engines that utilise wideband lambda technology. That said, most gains (if any) are achieved by improving the spread of torque across the rev range or, in particular, lowering it. If more torque is available lower in the rev range, less throttle is required to achieve the same level of accelerative effort. Of course, more fuel may be required to achieve the additional torque but lowering engine RPM more than compensates for this. And this is where diesel engines excel…

Turbo diesel engines – excellent power (torque) gains and potential mpg gains. Most mpg gains are achieved in turbo diesel engines by using the principle described above – making more torque available lower in the rev range. If you used to use 40% throttle but now only have to use 35% throttle to achieve the same accelerative effort, then you will most likely save fuel once the novelty of the extra power has worn off!

I hope that helps.

1857

Fuel Addtives

Using Fuel Additives at Higher Dosages – Overdosing

March 13, 2015 Andy 14 Comments

I am regularly asked whether fuel additives can be added at a higher dose or added to less fuel to make a more potent concentrate and whether this is more beneficial.

The answer in most cases is no. This is because detergents, cetane improvers, dispersants, lubricants, etc., are designed to work with a specific amount of fuel. This ensures that any deposits are removed and dispersed in a controlled manner and aren’t purged through the system too quickly. It also reduces the risk of overloading the fuel with too much cetane improver or other functions that risk negating the benefits they set out to achieve.

For example, amine and Polyetheramine-based fuel cleaners work much better when used with the correct amount of fuel and gradually allow the chemistry to remove deposits in a controlled way. If you add a cleaner designed for sixty litres of fuel to ten litres of fuel, you run the risk of removing deposits too quickly and lose the benefit of the extended duration that sixty litres will provide.

Another reason for this is that fuel cleaners are designed to work with fuel flow where the actual act of removing deposits requires the fuel to be in motion. Deposits are removed layer by layer as the fuel moves through the system. The stronger the concentrate – and the less fuel that is treated – the lesser the amount of total motion that occurs. Amines dissolve and disperse deposits and prevent them from accumulating in the fuel system.

Therefore, do not be tempted to treat with a much higher concentration except when professionally instructed to do so and when, for example, a heavily-contaminated fuel injector requires urgent attention. In this instance, some cleaners can be safely added directly to the fuel rail or fuel filter. However, this procedure should be carried out by a professional and is not relevant to in-the-tank fuel cleaners.

Another question we are regularly asked is why some additives require a large amount of product, whereas others require such a small amount.

Higher-strength cleaners contain more chemistry and are designed to deliver the maximum amount of cleaning power and functions in a single bottle. Treat rates typically vary from 100:1 to 200:1. Regular use fuel conditioners are designed to deliver a modest amount of cleaning power and functions and are safe for continuous use. Treat rates vary from 500:1 to 10,000:1

Also, note that different chemistries work in different ways. High-strength cleaners, in particular, generally require a much larger volume of chemistry, pibsa, amine, polyetheramine, etc. Such cleaning power requires volume.

With a regular use 1,000:1 fuel conditioner, noticeable improvements might take a few tanks, whereas a higher strength single-tank cleaner will work within a single tank of fuel. The challenge is to deliver as many benefits as possible with the smallest amount of product.

1480

Engine Oils

Garages & Repair Centers Using Cheap Oil

March 13, 2015 Andy 3 Comments

There is a “cheap oil” endemic, and I am concerned for the consumer.

As suppliers of various lubricants, one of our tasks is to demonstrate to automatic transmission and gearbox rebuild specialists the benefits of using OE (original equipment) oils or at least lubricants that meet the required manufacturer’s specifications. This is much more difficult than you might think.

I am concerned about the percentage of repair shops that choose to use low-quality, or in many cases, the cheapest oils available. A customer can easily spend £1500, £3000, or even £5000+ on more complex automatic gearbox overhauls, and yet, the garage performing the work will use oil that costs them around £1.50 to £2.00 per liter. And their response when they are asked why they choose such cheap oil? Their answer is generally this: “As long as it lasts the twelve-month warranty period, it is fine.”

This raises an interesting concern, not just in the transmission rebuilding market but also with engine oil changes. I believe that as a consumer, you are perfectly within your rights to question and challenge the oil being installed in your vehicle, whether it’s the transmission fluid, engine oil, or any other fluid.

In virtually all cases, franchised dealers will use OE oils. That’s what your money is paying for and how they justify their excessive prices. While not always the best value or the highest quality, at least you receive an accepted and approved level of quality.

Our greatest concern is with some independent garages and repair centers. Too many garages still insist on “cheapest” and, in some cases oils that simply do not meet the specifications for your vehicle. For example, they use mid or high SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus, sulfur, etc.) oil with engines that are only designed to run on low SAPS oils. This is concerning because of the potential harm to the emission control components, such as the DPFs (Diesel Particulate Filter) and so on. There have even been instances of an oil distributor selling recycled oil to their dealers, only for the dealers to discover that the engines were starting to burn and consume more oil! The base stock and additive pack were not good enough, and the oil deteriorated very quickly to the degree that the oil bypassed the piston rings and the engines began to consume it.

If you are paying for a service, repair work, or a complete overhaul of the transmission or engine in your vehicle, you are quite in your right to enquire about the fluids being used and request high-quality ones. When paying substantial money for a repair, it makes sense to use OE quality as an absolute minimum. If your vehicle is modified and the engine produces more horsepower, then it is advisable to use oils that exceed the manufacturer’s specifications or at least change them more regularly.

1024

Carbon Cleaning

Fuel & Carbon Cleaners – What Happens to the Carbon?

March 10, 2015 Andy 7 Comments

Frequently we are asked about fuel-based carbon cleaners. Specifically, what happens to carbon deposits that are removed through the use of fuel cleaners, and can these cleaners damage an engine?

Let’s begin by discussing the first part of that question.

Within the fuel system, you’ll seldom find carbon itself. You will likely discover sludge, gum, varnish, debris, and similar deposits. The fuel filter captures the larger deposits. These and other deposits that have found their way through the fuel system usually are dissolved and dispersed in a controlled and manageable way using dispersal-based detergents. That’s why it is important to use additives at the recommended dosage so that deposit removal is completed in a controlled manner. High-strength fuel system cleaners that carry out this process typically contain a lubricant to ensure the entire system is lubricated during the cleaning procedure. This too, minimizes the risk of any issues.

Most actual carbon formation occurs in the combustion chamber and post-combustion areas. This includes the turbo’s hot side, intake, inlet valves, EGR, catalytic convertor, DPF, and the remainder of the exhaust tract. The reason why carbon remains is that there is insufficient heat to burn it off. Chemically, a liquid hydrocarbon fuel – such as gasoline or diesel – is very similar to the solidified fuel (carbon) it creates. The difference is that a higher temperature must be reached to ignite and burn solid carbons because the flash point has changed.

High-quality fuel detergents, combined with fuel catalyst technology, reduce the threshold temperature at which the carbons can burn, enabling natural engine processes and inherent heat to gradually “burn off” the deposits. This is undoubtedly the case for combustion chamber deposits.

Sometimes there also is a degree of active cleaning from any cleaning chemistry that can survive the combustion process and thus is still active post combustion. However, as described above, most carbon is removed by reducing the temperature at which it can burn.

It is important to note that there also is a natural cleaning mechanism. When the combustion process is of sufficient quality – generally through an efficient fuel system (no injector deposits), good fuel quality (more often than not, only achieved with fuel conditioners), and an engine that is up to full operating temperature – engines are designed to self-manage carbon build-up. The clean(ish) gases will naturally remove carbons to maintain a respectable level.

The issue arises when this equilibrium is broken, and more carbons are deposited than can be naturally removed. This could be due to a flawed engine design, poor fuel quality, fuel system deposits, driving style, failure to let the engine reach the proper temperature, etc., or a combination of these.

This is why catalyst technology is so vital in carbon cleaning and for keeping a system clean. When a catalyst is added to the fuel, it improves the combustion quality to such a degree that it reduces the amount of hydrocarbons created, particularly when the engine is cold. These cleaner gases then work together with the active work the catalyst is doing to reduce the temperature at which these deposits can burn and be removed.

Essentially, a high-end fuel cleaner and carbon remover provide an environment where the combustion quality is much better, and the exhaust gasses are much cleaner. The cleaner exhaust gasses will naturally scavenge and remove carbons from the combustion and the post-combustion areas. The caveat is that this process requires heat. The catalyst will reduce the temperature at which the carbons can be removed and burned off, but it also needs heat.

This is why it is tough for such chemistries to clean the EGR system. The problem is that an EGR and intake are designed to cool recirculating exhaust gasses. Doing so reduces the efficacy of any post-combustion cleaner or chemistry. Unfortunately, this also applies to the rear of the intake valves of direct poor injection engines. Those two areas are challenging to clean because the gasses going through are cooled.

Also, it is difficult to remove existing deposits in these areas. However, by using a high-quality conditioner with the fuel catalyst in both diesel and petrol applications, you’ll at least give the engine and emission control components a much easier life. This is because the engine and emissions systems will have fewer carbons to manage. This results in fewer deposits and hopefully removes the need to use high-strength cleaners or invasive measures to remove carbons manually.

What about the safety of cleaners and the risk of the fuel system or engine damage?

Providing products are used as per the instructions, the risk of any damage is incredibly low. The few rare cases of alleged damage we have witnessed weren’t caused by a product. The product just revealed or exacerbated an underlying mechanical issue with the fuel system. Still, this is incredibly rare.

Furthermore, manufacturers err on the side of caution, so even if a product is used aggressively or improperly, it is still likely to be safe to use up until a certain point.

To summarise, fuel system deposits are generally dissolved, dispersed, and combusted naturally. Carbon is usually combusted through heat and an added fuel-borne catalyst. These processes are proven safe when used correctly and responsibly.

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