All posts by Andy

Oil & Manufacturing – Conspiracy? No, it’s Basic Economics

March 13, 2014 Andy 13 Comments

I feel it’s about time I aired an ongoing concern that has been boiling away inside me for a very long time. Those who have benefited from my consultations already might have heard it. It is about a collection of paraphrased quotes that make my eyes roll whenever I read or listen to them. As soon as I do, I want to walk away because it can be tiring listening to such levels of ignorance, especially if the ignorance is compounded with an underlying antagonism or unwillingness to evaluate the evidence without bias.

Here are some of the quotes to which I am referring:

“Why would you want to use an oil additive when oil manufacturers spend many millions on R&D getting it perfect?”

“There is no need to modify that X part on my Y vehicle because manufacturers spend millions on R&D and testing to get it perfect, etcetera, etcetera.”

“If that fuel additive were any good, it already would be in use in our fuels.”

If you subscribe to any of the above, you are the perfect consumer of many of these companies; you are a marketing department’s dream. This is said with all due respect, and I mean that sincerely. I will provide you with some food for thought though, and hopefully, it will shed some well-overdue light on this subject.

I’ll address the last quote first.

If fuel companies already use the latest and greatest technologies, then why do most of them sell premium versions of their own fuel?

Last year, a fuel additive dealer that we know very well lost a contract to provide a complete fuel additive package to a fuel distributor in the Netherlands. The distributor was looking to provide premium diesel fuel to its customers. The deal was lost to a competitor with a lower-performing product.

So what was the issue? From the limited feedback, it is understood that the fuel economy gained from the catalyst in the product was too high at around 5% and around twice that of the competitor product. They both provided cleaning, protected fuel systems, handled water contamination, etc. However, the MPG gains meant the distributor would lose money, even with the extra money charged for the premium fuel. The release of innovative technology is often balanced against strict economic criteria, targets, and other similar constraints.

There was genuine intent to provide a better product, but it had to fit in with an agreed-upon financial model. It is the same reason companies that PURCHASE energy or maintenance are interested in fuel and maintenance-saving technologies. At the same time, companies that SELL energy or maintenance (or parts) can’t wait to kick you out of the door. That is if you manage to get through it in the first place.

Two years ago, an extremely, VERY well-known manufacturer of diesel fuel system parts, injectors, high-pressure fuel pumps, and so on sent a memorandum to all of its dealers and garages outlining the risks of fuel additives and indirectly prohibiting their use. This manufacturer said fuel additives will cause damage. Granted, some additives don’t deliver results as stated on the tin, but I have yet to see fuel system parts damaged from their use. Unsurprisingly, there are many reports of injector and pump damage from using poor quality fuels, contaminated fuels, and hence fuels that are not treated with high-quality additives.

Let’s look at the second quote.

It is an interesting one, to say the least, and often parroted on automotive forums/discussion boards across the globe. I believe it is only partly accurate, so I will attempt to correct it.

“Vehicle manufacturers spend millions in R&D and testing to make vehicles the best they can be, WITHIN A DEFINED CRITERIA AND STRICT BUDGET.”

Of course, vast sums of money are spent on vehicle technology and development, but manufacturing quality and component durability are constrained by budget.

Firstly, technologies already exist to make a standard family car last for 20+ years, 500,000+ miles, and without any major failure. The problem is that a basic family car would cost Ferrari money to buy. Who would pay £100,000+ for an uber-reliable family hatchback?

Secondly, the marketing departments know very well that 99% of their customers have no intention of keeping their cars for five or even ten years, hence there is no market for such a car. Consumer tastes change, and people like to update their vehicles.

This keeps vehicles at “affordable” prices. To produce a car that no one wants or can afford would be commercial suicide.

Then there is the servicing and repairs, from where the actual revenue comes. If a vehicle needed few or no repairs, the initial purchase price of a car would jump even further because manufacturers and franchised dealers would have to make up for that lost revenue stream. The use of additives and modified parts interferes with this business model. Again, this has nothing to do with conspiracy – it is basic economics.

Let’s look at automatic transmission manufacturers as another example. Now, I am not suggesting they deliberately engineer transmissions to fail at 100,000 miles, but they certainly don’t engineer them to last hundreds of thousands of miles. Why? Because they couldn’t afford to buy them within the budget that had been set. Car manufacturer ‘A’ is not going to go to transmission manufacturer ‘B’ with a requirement for a transmission that is robust for say, 250k miles, when most vehicles will never reach anywhere near that mileage anyway. Most manufacturers provide a standard three-year, 60,000-mile warranty for a reason. It is common in the trade that a conventional auto gearbox (with torque converter), on original lifetime oil is a ticking time bomb once it hits the 100,000-mile mark. The number of double clutch transmissions that fail much earlier is staggering.

There are exceptions to this rule. An example would be the Bugatti Veyron. When the CEO set out the criteria for that car, the designers and engineers were liberated from the usual financial restrictions. The primary criterion was to design and build a 1000-horsepower car using the best technology available regardless of cost. And what was the result? They created a car that, despite its tremendous power output and complexity, will probably go on for years without fault. And what was the result for Bugatti (or Volkswagen if we wish to be pedantic)? A car that sells for around £1,000,000 yet costs almost £5,000,000 to make. Clearly, this is not a sustainable business model for a mainstream manufacturer. But you get the idea.

Now, onto the first quote. Obtain the best or most expensive off-the-shelf oil you can find and I will improve that oil’s lubricity and extreme pressure rating within minutes by fortifying the additive pack. I can even reduce wear metals considerably over and above the best oil you can lay your hands on. I am not talking about the high-end branded £50 gallon of “fully synthetic” oils, but the specialist £25-30 per litre genuine, fully-synthetic (actual PAO/Ester based) oils. How can this be?

Firstly, oil manufacturers do not have a monopoly on the latest technologies. Many of the patents in this arena are owned by smaller private companies.

Secondly, a high-end £50 gallon of “synthetic” oil probably contains less than £5 worth of raw ingredients. When you factor in the sales margin of the manufacturer, master distributors, distributors, and retailers, £5 turns into £50 when it reaches the shop shelf. There is nothing unusual about this.

Now look at the cost of base stocks. We buy genuine, fully-synthetic Ester and PAO base stocks by the drum loads and the trade price is around £4-£6 per litre. Include the additive pack, blending process, packaging, and other factors and you will end up with oil that costs £10+ to make. Pro-rata, that equates to over £100 on the shop shelf. But who is going to pay that price?

The same principles that applied previously also apply here in that the same budget constraints exist with the manufacturing of engine oil.

Thirdly, most major oil manufacturers buy the ingredients and additive packs rather than make their own. There are two major suppliers in the world that supply the majority of additive packs to mainstream oil brands. You might have heard me mention this before in other articles, but I will repeat it again here for those who haven’t. If you visit the largest automotive shows or mechanic-orientated shows in the world, you will find hundreds of different oil brands. I guarantee that only a small percentage of these are genuine manufacturers. So much oil is rebranded, and if you care to look closely, you will discover that the oil market is just one huge marketing competition. Some of these marketing budgets make R&D budgets look like a petty cash pot.

Finally, and this is an important one. The various oil standards can actually restrict what you can and cannot do with oil. This can result in consumer lubricants that are inferior by design. For example, consider low SAP (sulphated ash) oils. Many of the good properties in these oils have been removed and replaced with more expensive yet inferior alternatives. When you are in the business and actually speak to the “right” people within the mainstream oil companies, some will openly admit to using cheaper technologies. The two main justifications are as follows: A. The market is not ready for the latest and greatest nano technologies and B. We must keep costs down in order to be COMPETITIVE. Please understand that many oils are designed to meet specifications created by certain institutions (that I care not to mention in public), rather than designed to be the best, performance-wise. There is a difference!

Did you know that if you committed to a minimum order quantity, you could go to a variety of companies and order virtually any current spec oil you wished with your own brand design, and it would be on your doorstep within weeks? But try asking them to blend a new, innovative and superior technology into the oil and you are politely shown the door.

It does concern me when I can take a pure 20W PAO base stock combined with a high quality oil additive like AR9200 or Velosyn, no polymers so a fixed 20 weight hot or cold, no additional HTHS additives or dispersants, and so forth, and create an oil that complies with virtually none of the strict specifications, and yet it outperforms some of the best synthetic oils available, per regular metal spectrographic and TAN/TBN tests.

Welcome to oil economics.

If you require any advice or help then please don’t hesitate to contact us.

1463

Fuel Quality

Premium Diesel Versus Standard Diesel Fuel

February 6, 2014 Andy 4 Comments

In our work, we are frequently asked whether premium diesel fuel is superior to standard diesel fuel. And our short answer is always a resounding, “Yes.” But more explanation is needed when it comes to the other big question regarding premium diesel fuel – such as whether it is worth its higher price.

Premium diesel from the pump contains more detergent and additives than standard diesel fuel, which helps to improve an engine’s combustion performance. Depending on engine design, using a premium diesel usually results in an increase in performance and MPG, as well as reduced engine emissions and similar benefits.

So yes, premium diesel is better than standard diesel. But is it worth its higher price tag?

On that matter, we are not so sure. The main issue is that premium diesel fuels could be much better considering the significant extra cost per litre. The additional detergent currently included is barely enough to retain a clean engine on most fuel systems and engine types and fails to actively remove existing deposits. Unfortunately, we find that diesel vehicles solely using premium diesel fuels continue accumulating deposits. Not so much in the fuel system, but in the combustion area, emission components (EGR, DPF), intake manifold, intake valves, etc. Using a premium diesel will undoubtedly delay the formation of carbon deposits in these areas. But don’t expect miracles in regards to cleaning performance. The increased bio-diesel percentage contributes to an increase in fuel system contamination, biological degradation, and carbon build-up. Unfortunately, current fuels do not do enough to address these issues.

Please note, in the manufacturers’ defense, there are regulatory considerations, such as the outdated BS EN590 specification, that control what additives can be included in fuel. But those regulations are irrelevant to whether premium diesel, as it is made today, is a good value for the price you pay at the pump.

So if premium fuel isn’t worth the extra cost and standard diesel is lacking, what should you do? We suggest adding a high-quality diesel fuel conditioner with combustion catalyst technology to standard diesel fuel. Doing this will generally create a fuel that will outperform a premium diesel and be more cost-effective per tank. We have substantial testimony, as well as research data, that supports this. More complete fuel conditioners contain effective technologies to proactively clean and remove existing deposits, lubricate the diesel pump, remove water, prevent fuel degradation or contamination, lower emissions, improve performance, increase MPG, and so on.

It is simply a case of weighing the benefits of premium diesel versus the additional benefits of a fuel conditioner while also considering convenience and cost.

Another issue to consider in this debate is consistency. It is not uncommon to encounter variances in quality with fuel from the same gas station. From what we understand, distribution agreements between the fuel retailers and refineries call for gas stations to sell fuel from the nearest refinery in the area, regardless of the brand. Additive packs are added at the refinery or directly into the station fuel tanks.

The same variance applies to petrol. Regular octane tests will reveal startling differences in fuel octane. One week it tests at 95.6, the next at 96.8, and so forth. As you can imagine, this makes testing octane boosters extremely difficult because base fuels can be inconsistent.

Some advice we will add is to “know” your petrol station. When possible, purchase fuels from stations you know have a high fuel turnover. Try to avoid filling your vehicle from tanks running low and those that have just been filled, as this can agitate deposits and moisture. If you see a tanker, come back later. A fuel conditioner should protect against fuel’s inherent issues and inconsistencies.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us and either I or a member of my team will be pleased to assist you.

1284

Fuel Addtives

Fuel Catalysts & Archoil’s AR6900-D MAX and AR6900-P MAX

January 24, 2014 Andy 60 Comments

We regularly receive questions regarding fuel catalyst technologies and how they work. In particular, we receive many questions about Archoil AR6900-D and AR6900-P MAX. The existing definition of “burn rate modifier” and the phrase “lowers burn rate by up to 400 degrees” has caused confusion.

In simple terms, a catalyst facilitates a better fuel burn. Each fuel type will have a flash point and auto-ignition point, which are determined by temperature and other factors. However, these are different from the burn rate.

Both petrol and diesel are composed of carbons, and these carbons, or carbon chains, require up to 1200ºF to burn thoroughly. This has nothing to do with the flash point. The flash point is the temperature at which the fuel vapor will ignite with the help of an ignition source. The auto-ignition point is the temperature at which the fuel vapor will ignite without an ignition source.

Once the fuel has ignited, it creates an exothermic reaction (heat). This rapid increase in heat burns the fuel (carbons) and establishes the explosion in the combustion chamber, thus resulting in a massive release of energy. This forces the piston downwards and causes the crankshaft to rotate.

If you can reduce the temperature at which carbons burn, say by up to 400ºF in the case of AR6900, you can improve the burn. This is achieved by increasing the surface area of fuel droplets and starting the burn rate of hydrocarbons at a lower temperature to yield more available BTUs from the combustion process. The fuel becomes more aromatic (a sign of increased chemical stability), and a longer residual burn occurs. This reduces unburned hydrocarbons and wasted energy in the form of black smoke or emissions.

Altering the burn rate in this way does not directly increase horsepower. It increases the energy released through the explosion, which raises torque output. Burning the fuel more fully will also increase torque and lower emissions, as proven by a carbon mass balance test. This is the same process with all hydrocarbon fuels such as petrol, diesel, ethanol, heating oil, heavy fuel oil, etc.

Now, you might wonder, will AR6900-P affect petrol’s octane rating? Yes, but only marginally. The catalyst amount is significantly lower than in octane booster products.

AR6900-D and AR6900-P only affect the temperature at which the carbons will burn once the fuel has ignited. It does not directly alter the flash or auto-ignition point. However, tests have shown that improving combustion quality and stability means that the propensity of pre-ignition is reduced with AR690-P. And this can have the effect of “raising” the octane.

When fuel is not entirely burned, pockets of fuel can subsequently ignite a second time, again causing engine knock. The improvement in combustion quality from using AR6900-P helps eliminate this because fuel carbons are burned more thoroughly the first time. AR6900-P does not alter the fuel’s auto-ignition point but instead corrects another inherent source of engine knock—remaining unburned fuel.

We hope this helps and if you require any advice, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

1748

MAF & Air Intake Cleaning

Mass Airflow (MAF) and Mass Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor Cleaning & Cleaners

January 10, 2014 Andy 8 Comments

A Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) measures the air entering an engine. It is important to measure air so the ECU can calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject into the combustion chamber to achieve the optimum air/fuel ratio. Because of the MAF’s important role, it should be attended to regularly, just as you would an air filter.

MAFs got their name because they are designed to calculate the entire mass of air rather than just the flow rate. This helps the ECU better respond to differences in air density, supported by Air Intake Temperature (IAT) sensors that measure air temperature and Mass Air Pressure (MAP) sensors that measure air pressure. Turbocharged engines, in particular, rely heavily on MAP sensors.

Together, these sensors provide valuable data to the ECU so that it can deliver correct turbo pressure and fuel injector timing regardless of conditions. When one of the sensors fails or starts to operate out of range, the ECU will take precautionary measures to protect the engine. This results in power loss and engine hesitation.

The most common MAF type is the hot wire. This pre-heated filament, when hit with air, cools and creates a change in electrical resistance. This subsequently changes the voltage signal (normally between 0 and 5 volts) sent to the ECU.

Over time, the hot wire on the sensor can accumulate debris, dust, and sometimes oil particulates, especially if an aftermarket filter or induction kit is fitted. The filter is typically coated with oil to trap fine dust. As a result, this oil and debris can make their way onto the sensor, affecting the accuracy of the airflow signal to the ECU. This can result in poor engine running, hesitation, increased emissions, reduced MPG, and so on.

MAP sensors are similar in that they accumulate deposits over time. Unfortunately, even the most modern ECUs cannot detect this degradation of performance. An error code or warning light will only appear if the unit has failed completely.

The solution is to clean the MAF and MAP sensor at each service schedule with a designated MAF cleaner. Standard electrical contact cleaners are also effective, but ensure they do not leave any residue. Also, remember that they usually contain a single basic solvent. In contrast, professional MAF cleaners have a blend of multiple solvents specifically for the type of debris that needs to be removed, making the job a little easier.

We recommend Archoil AR2810 MAF Cleaner, which contains 500ml of the best solvents available for precisely this task. It is also completely safe for all MAF and MAP materials and plastics, leaves absolutely zero residues, and is comparable in cost to basic contact cleaners when considering the size of the can.

Through research, Archoil discovered that customers were wasting product as MAF and MAP cleaning only required a few sprays. The latest version is now compatible with air intakes and EGRs so customers can clean the sensors as before and now use the remainder of the can to clean the EGR and Intake Plenum, ensuring zero waste.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Use offer code ‘MAF’ for 25% off when you purchase AR2810 through www.Powerenhancer.co.uk.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a MAF Cleaner?

An MAF Cleaner is an aerosol-based product used to clean and remove deposits from the Mass Airflow Sensors.

What is a MAF Cleaner made of?

MAF Cleaners are made of solvents and aerosol propellants. Cleaners using multi-solvents work best.

MAF Cleaner vs Carb Cleaner?

Not all carb cleaners are residue-free, so this is not recommended.

MAF Cleaner vs Brake Cleaner?

Do not use brake cleaner, as it may remain on the sensor. Removing the brake cleaner residue would then require direct contact or another solvent-based cleaner.

MAF Cleaner vs Contact Cleaner

Contact cleaner is usually just isopropyl alcohol, which will clean but not as effectively as a multi-solvent cleaner. It is also unsuitable for cleaning intake plenums, EGRs, etc.

Can I use MAF Cleaner on a MAP sensor?

Check with the manufacturer for compatibility. Most should be suitable as the manufacturing materials and plastics are similar. AR2810 can be used on both MAF and MAP sensors.

Can I use MAF Cleaner on a Throttle Body?

Potentially, yes, but cleaning performance will be limited if the cleaner uses basic solvents. AR2810 can be used to clean Throttle Bodies. Check suitability with the manufacturer.

How to Use MAF Cleaner?

Disconnect and remove the airflow sensor. Then, in a well-ventilated area, spray the filament wire in the sensor with small bursts until deposits are removed. It is important to not touch the wire directly. Allow the sensor to dry fully and then reconnect.

1574

DPF Cleaning & Maintenance

DPF Removal to Become an MOT Failure

December 13, 2013 Andy 4 Comments

The MOT test for diesel vehicles is changing from February 2014. All diesel cars originally fitted with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) must have the DPF in place and operational during the MOT test. If it is missing, then the vehicle will fail the test.

The current test only examines emissions, but technicians will have to check that the filter is still present. What we don’t yet know is if this includes modified units. For example, many companies gut the internals, but the original DPF remains. We guess that the vehicle would still pass on the visual inspection.

Some claim that removal is illegal, citing that it contravenes the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation 61 A, as it no longer meets emission standards applied to it when new. However, this is not always the case, as there is growing evidence that DPF removal can lower emissions and even the hydrocarbon count. Many responsible owners have chosen to have the DPF removed from their car while using a combustion catalyst to reduce HCs further. The result is an engine that outputs less HC than when it had the original DPF fitted. Besides, have you ever been driving behind a diesel car undergoing a regeneration cycle? What is coming out of the exhaust?!

Then there are the substantial power MPG increases to be had.
The Minister for roads, Robert Goodwill quoted: “I am very concerned that vehicles are being modified in a way that is detrimental to people’s health and undoes the hard work car manufacturers have taken to improve emissions standards.

“This change to the MOT tests makes it clear – if you have this filter removed from your car, it will fail the test.”

A spokesperson from the Department for Transport told us that anyone who has had the filter removed would require a new one put back on their car to pass their next MOT test.

Ignorance is bliss. What is our view? As a responsible company, we want to see emissions reduced. We achieve this every day with specialist fuel modification technologies. While we accept and agree that DPF removal can increase hydrocarbon output, it is not always the case. When a customer with a blocked DPF approaches us for help, we give them the options, the pros and cons of each, so that they can make an informed decision. In-tank DPF cleaner versus Professional DPF clean versus DPF removal etc. If opting for removal, we advise using a product with an active combustion catalyst such as Oilsyn Diesel Race DNA or Archoil AR6900-D to lower the emissions. The result is lower HCs than before, additional power, improved MPG and no more black smoke from regular regeneration cycles.

Unfortunately, this choice has now been taken away from the consumer, which is a shame for those that modify emissions control components in a responsible way.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us and either I or a member of my team will be pleased to help.

1547

Carbon Cleaning, EGR Cleaning & Maintenance

Importance of a Clean EGR

August 21, 2013 Andy 2 Comments

The subject of EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) systems comes up often, so I thought it was about time we explained further how a dirty EGR could affect performance, MPG, and exhaust emissions.
With our professional range of cleaners, we are confident that we can resolve a large percentage of the minor poor running issues (hesitation, poor idle, reduced performance, MPG, increased exhaust smoke, etc.) that our customers encounter. So where does that leave the other percentage? From our experience, faulty EGRs (due to deposit accumulation) and faulty sensors (the Mass Airflow being the most common) contribute to many running issues that professional fuel injector cleaners won’t resolve.

What is an EGR valve?

An EGR valve, or exhaust gas recirculation system, is a primary component of an engine’s emissions system on petrol and diesel-powered vehicles. Its purpose is to reduce NOx emissions by recycling a proportion of the combustion gases that normally exit through the exhaust. Recirculating some of the spent exhaust gases back into the engine is one way to reduce these harmful emissions, and this is done by using an Exhaust Recirculation System (EGR). The main component of this system is a valve that returns a proportion of the exhaust gases back into the engine to be mixed with clean air and fuel and then re-combusted.

The recirculated gases can be passed through air or water-type EGR Cooler. This, in turn, reduces the temperature of the gas, which reduces the charge temperature, that leads to an improved quality of combustion and engine power. In the case of a diesel engine, the recirculated proportion of gases can sometimes be as high as 50% under certain operating conditions.

Over time the EGR valve and associated pipework accumulate carbon deposits. These inhibit bypassed exhaust gasses back into the intake and play havoc with the fuelling. Thus we end up with hesitation, reduced MPG, and ironically, excessive emissions, particularly when the EGR is transitioning from open to close and vice versa. Unfortunately, modern electronics do not always recognize a faulty EGR except when the flow is entirely impeded, or there is an electronic fault with the control solenoid/actuator. What happens is that carbon builds up on the EGR valve itself, creating a resistance to the opening and closing of the valve. This vacuum-operated valve sticks and the solenoid that operates the vacuum has to work overtime to produce a sufficient vacuum to open the valve. An excess draw of current then trips the ECU warning light.

Carbon build-up cannot be avoided entirely as there is a natural and strong affinity between hydrocarbons and metal surfaces. The key is maintaining a manageable level of carbon build-up within the system and in quantities, the engine can naturally consume.

It is important to understand why carbon builds up in the first place and where it comes from. Contrary to popular belief, carbon build-up comes not just from fuel but also from engine oil. Oil can bypass engine rings, inlet valves and crankcase breather systems and then polymerise on intake and emission control system components as it recirculates. This creates a porous surface from which other oil vapor and excess hydrocarbons produced from the combustion process can then adhere and create further build-up.

Numerous solutions are now available ranging from aerosol sprays with accompanying fuel cleaner to pressurized detergents that are atomized into the intake and EGR system. The most effective way is a manual clean of the EGR valve and periphery pipework, but this is not always possible without significant labor time. It is also important to note that it is not always the valve that blocks up but the pipe leading from the EGR back into the intake. The hole(s) that leads into the intake are typically tiny and can block up easily. This then backs up to the valve.

Why do fuel cleaners struggle with EGR cleaning?

Fuel cleaning technology has come a long way, and carbon can be removed from most areas of an engine and emissions control system through fuel system cleaners. However, EGRs are notoriously difficult with this method. Here’s why:

There are four types of fuel-based EGR cleaners (1st three are added to the fuel).

1. Low-cost solvent-based cleaners that do very little other than clean the fuel injectors as the chemistry is destroyed during the combustion process.

2. Higher quality fuel system cleaners that use chemistries such as polyether amines to help remove combustion and post-combustion deposits, although most of it Is destroyed during the combustion process.

3. Patented molecules that are activated during the combustion process (rather than destroyed) are then carried in the recirculating gases. These molecules bond with the carbon, acting as a catalyst for its removal.

4. Solvent cleaners that are sprayed into the air intake and circulate through the intake system, EGR, combustion area, and out into the post-combustion areas, including the turbo and EGR again.

Product type 1 is useless. Product type 2 may have some effect if the carbons are mainly fuel related, but this process relies on heat. What happens is that such products improve the quality of the combustion to the degree that the cleaner exhaust gases will naturally scavenge and remove carbon from post-combustion areas. This is more workable in areas such as the turbo, DPF, CAT, etc., as heat is maintained. This cleaning mechanism is effective with HOT clean exhaust gases, but an EGR system is designed to cool the gases, reducing efficacy considerably. Furthermore, there has to be sufficient flow through the EGR system for this process to work. If it is blocked completely, then natural scavenging will not work.

On a side note, fuel additive manufacturers have been careful not to reveal the fact that combustion modification and improvement and the resulting cleaner exhaust gases can naturally remove carbon deposits! I remember one of our long-term test vehicles (Audi S8 4.2 TDI) having exhaust tips cleaner on the inside than on the outside, and I’m not kidding.

Product type 3 is similar to 2 and slightly more effective. Specific molecules in the fuel additive are dormant and become active during the combustion process. Carried through the recirculating exhaust gases, they bond to carbonaceous deposits. This acts as a catalyst to dissolve/remove the deposits to the combustion area, where they are then burned. However, like with product type 2, this method requires sufficient heat and airflow through the EGR system.

Product type 4 is the most effective as the solvents do not require heat to work and hit the target areas more easily. Again, if there is substantial oil build-up, then it is much more difficult to remove.

For information on products to clean the EGR system and keep it clean, read our article HERE.

1836

EGR Cleaning & Maintenance

EGR Cleaning and EGR Cleaners

July 29, 2013 Andy 102 Comments

An EGR valve, or exhaust gas recirculation system is a primary component of an engine’s emissions system on petrol and diesel powered vehicles. Its purpose is to reduce NOx emissions by recycling a proportion of the combustion gases that normally exit through the exhaust. A valve is used to control the flow of gases, which are re-routed through the intake system, where they are re-combusted with fresh intake air and fuel. On a correctly functioning EGR system, this lowers undesirable exhaust emissions.

The problem with these systems, particularly diesel vehicles, is that excess hydrocarbons are produced during the combustion process. These hydrocarbons deposit themselves on the EGR valve and periphery pipework, where the EGR routes back into the intake system. Over time, this clogs and eventually blocks the EGR valve and the associated pipework.

Additional Source of Deposit Build-up!

It is important to note that the carbon buildup in an EGR system and other emission control components is not only from the combustion process. In most cases, it’s a combination of combustion-produced hydrocarbons and deposits from the crankcase oil. This is where many fail to correctly arrest deposit build-up on the EGR after it has been cleaned or replaced. More on this later…

The engine oil can bypass the piston rings, valve stem seals, and crankcase breather system (PCV). That oil is then consumed during the combustion process, but it isn’t fully combusted. The unburned oil and fuel are both recycled and deposited within the EGR. The oil will polymerize onto the metal surfaces due to the strong affinity between oil and metal. This newly formed surface acts as a “sponge” for all other particulates in the recirculating exhaust gases.

You have a combination of bypassed oil and unburned fuel deposited within the EGR system. This turns into a solid, which builds up and clogs the EGR valve and associated pipework, causing faulty operation.

If the EGR valve begins to stick or is blocked up, the solenoid used to operate it will draw more current to open it. The ECU detects that condition and throws an engine warning light.

The symptoms of a faulty EGR include:

Hesitation
Stumbling
Excessive emissions/smoke during acceleration
Engine warning lights

As deposits begin accumulating, this restricts the flow of gases and disturbs the fuel mixture. The ECU expects a certain amount of recirculating gases as the EGR valve transitions from closed to open and visa-versa. These gases are not delivered as anticipated, hence the air/fuel ratio disturbance. This can result in hesitation, stumbling, and excess emissions, particularly during acceleration.
Natural Carbon Removal

Now, there is a natural carbon cleaning mechanism, and most additive manufacturers won’t tell you this. Suppose you’re able to improve the quality of combustion and are thus able to produce cleaner exhaust gases during the combustion process. In that case, these cleaner exhaust gases will naturally scavenge and remove carbon. This is also the case with many emission control components attached to the exhaust system, such as the hot side of the turbocharger, catalytic converter, or a diesel particulate filter.

You can naturally clean these areas. Many additives you see on the market today are essentially just fuel system cleaners and combustion catalysts. They might be promoted and marketed as EGR cleaners, DPF cleaners, and so on, but they’re nothing more than fuel system cleaners. What they do is restore the efficiency of the fuel system and, by doing so, improve the efficiency of the combustion, which reduces hydrocarbon production. In addition, some products contain a fuel catalyst technology that in itself will lower the hydrocarbons produced. You’re left with cleaner exhaust gases, which will help naturally remove the carbon from these mentioned areas. Except for a few products that contain technologies where molecules are activated during combustion (more on this later), such cleaners do not directly clean these areas, as the chemistry is destroyed during the combustion process.

The Problem with Natural Removal and EGR Valves

This natural cleaning mechanism is not always effective when cleaning the EGR system. The reason for this is that when cleaning carbon from your engine, heat is the primary factor. There must be sufficient heat. Heat, combined with the cleaner, recycled exhaust gases, helps remove carbon. The problem with the EGR is that the gases are usually cooled when they reach the valve and the periphery pipework. Therefore, the natural cleaning mechanism is not always as effective with EGRs, so you have to take alternative action.

Alternative Cleaning for EGR Valves and Systems

Unfortunately, the most effective way to clean an EGR is to remove and clean it manually (if you have access to it). You’ll remove the EGR and the periphery pipework. Scrape off as much carbon as you can manually, then use a quality EGR aerosol cleaner to clean the remainder and reassemble the system.

If you don’t have easy access to the EGR valve, you can use an in situ aerosol-based EGR cleaner that you can either spray into the EGR pipework or through the air intake and clean the EGR this way. However, particularly with diesel engines, you must be very careful. You don’t want to damage the engine. If you’re in doubt, you should let a trained professional carry out this procedure for you.

Once the EGR is clean and operational, it is essential to take the steps necessary to prevent further carbon buildup. While you can never stop it completely, you can maintain a manageable level of carbon that the engine can naturally consume without the deposits becoming excessive. If you were to remove the EGR, you’d be looking for a fine layer of carbon that you can scratch off with your nail. Anything more than that would be considered excessive.

Maintain and Protect

1. Firstly, use a high-quality polyetheramine-based fuel system cleaner and carbon remover to ensure injector and combustion efficiency is restored. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a clogged EGR valve soon after. We recommend Oilsyn Diesel Dr/Petrol Dr or Archoil AR6400-P/AR6400-D MAX.

2. Secondly, you need high-quality engine oil and/or oil additive that helps prevent oil from bypassing the crankcase breather system or piston rings and polymerizing with the EGR system. You must tackle the problem from both the fuel system end and also the crankcase oil. I recommend a high-quality oil additive pack such as Archoil AR9200 or AR9400. These have been shown to prevent polymerization and even remove carbon from these areas in some cases.

3. Thirdly, and particularly if most of your driving is short or start/stop, use a high-quality ongoing fuel additive containing an effective combustion modifier or fuel catalyst. We recommend Oilsyn Diesel Power DNA, Petrol Power DNA, or Archoil AR6900-D MAX / AR6900-P MAX. These will improve the combustion quality and lower the amount of hydrocarbons being produced and thus recycled through the system, especially when the engine is in its warm-up cycle. Most of the time, you’ll only use a little bit of the product at a time, and a single bottle will last for multiple tanks of fuel.

Get Out and Drive

Finally, it’s important to make you aware our view is that most of today’s vehicles are commonly mis-sold. They are simply not designed for the short journeys that many people use them for – around town driving, shopping runs, school runs, etc. If the vehicle is not permitted to get up to temperature frequently, hydrocarbons will inevitably be produced and deposited throughout the system.

Because of the lack of heat, it will be challenging for the engine and the emissions control components to naturally manage carbon within the system. Therefore, using the correct oil, fuel, and fuel additives is essential to keeping the engine running efficiently.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of my team or I will be pleased to help.

Oilsyn and Archoil products can be purchased from http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk

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Fuel Saving

MPG Drop With Winter Diesel Fuel Change

May 30, 2013 Andy 6 Comments

A few years back, our customers sought advice on poor fuel economy during winter months, particularly with diesel-powered vehicles. This phenomenon is easily explainable. The reason is that many fuel companies around the colder parts of the world, the UK being one of them, switch fuels during winter. This usually occurs in the UK around November.

This is necessary because it provides greater protection against gelling and waxing, typically providing additional protection of up to minus 15 degrees centigrade, as opposed to the standard minus 5 degrees during colder spells. The downside is that this fuel usually has a lower BTU (energy) value than the summer equivalent. This results in less energy being produced during the combustion process, and thus your engine requires more right foot to attain the same level of accelerative or cruising effort.

There isn’t an immediate solution other than to use a high-quality combustion modifier or fuel catalyst additive to help maximize the energy capability of the fuel. No additive can increase the BTU of fuel, but you can ensure you get the most out of it and ensure it’s not wasted in the form of excess emissions or particulates. Also, diesel engines are more susceptible to carbon build-up during winter months as the engine takes longer to get up to temperature, which can ultimately lower the MPG.

A diesel additive with combustion improvers can provide a much cleaner burn (even during engine warm-up conditions) with the added benefits of cleaning and lubricating the fuel system, preserving the fuel, and protecting against water and other contaminants.

If you have any questions regarding this article or require assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

1846

Fuel Addtives

Do Fuel and Oil Additives Really Work?

May 30, 2013 Andy 19 Comments

Firstly, we need to understand what is meant by “work” as there are conflicting ideas and interpretations. Some would consider “work” to improve performance or increase mpg, whereas others would consider “work” to clean the fuel system, restore fuel injector efficiency or reduce friction. Others would consider a product to have “worked” if it resolved an underlying problem, such as resolving engine hesitation, restoring lost performance, or reducing excessive emissions.

So which is correct? Firstly you need to understand how additives work and what they really do:

Fuel additives directly deliver one or more of the following:

1. Clean the fuel system and restore injector efficiency
2. Remove combustion deposits
3. Help clean emissions control system components
4. Lubricate the fuel system and combustion area
5. Protect against chemical or biological contamination
6. Preserve fuel and offer cold weather protection
7. Improve the quality of combustion (catalyst)
8. And so on.

The above direct actions then may or may not result in:
1. Increase in power and torque
2. Increase in fuel economy
3. Smoother running engine
4. Smoother idle
5. Reduced exhaust emissions
6. Less mechanical vibration or noise
7. And so on.

Can you see the difference? The point I am making here is that an increase in performance or mpg is typically the resultant benefit of cleaning a fuel system, engine or reducing friction. They should not always be considered as the direct aims of fuel or oil additives. The usual goal of additives is to rid the fuel system and combustion area of deposits and, thus, from these actions, restore any lost performance or MPG. Further combustion modification (catalysts) can then improve MPG further.

We often see the expectations with additives mismanaged. If a vehicle were achieving an expected and realistic 50 mpg, one would then be disappointed to discover when they purchased and used a fuel cleaner that the MPG didn’t improve if they had purchased the cleaner to improve MPG. There has to be a degradation of fuel economy in the first place. To improve MPG up and above what the engine is designed to deliver on standard pump fuel, you need to use additives designed to improve combustion and thus maximize the energy output of the base fuel, not a cleaner.

Therefore, to resolve any confusion, most fuel additive cleaners do not directly increase economy or performance. Modern detergents remove debilitating deposits and thus restore fuel system and combustion efficiency. This may or may not increase fuel economy or engine performance. It depends on what you started with. Highly quality additives with effective fuel catalyst technology can then marginally increase MPG over standard figures, depending on the quality of base fuel being used.

Symptoms can also be mechanically related. A user may inadvertently use a cleaner or additive to resolve what is, in fact a mechanical or electrical issue. This is not necessarily bad as additives can be used as a low-cost process of elimination. However, when using additives to resolve problems, it is important to understand the symptoms and, thus the probability of these symptoms being resolved through “chemical” means. Additives are not mechanics in a can.

Furthermore, a successful cleaning cycle does not automatically result in a smoother, more performant, or more economical engine. Different engine designs respond to deposits in different ways.

Many cleaners (not all) work by restoring performance and MPG. Time and time again, we see customers purchasing one-shot cleaners to improve MPG on an engine running well and achieving the expected MPG with the hope that it would magically improve fuel economy. Now, if you purchased the cleaner to maintain a clean system, then this is valid. Still, we see the expectations of many customers mismanaged when it comes to what they were expecting versus what they should reasonably expect versus what products really do and how this translates into discernible improvements to their vehicle.

The best advice we can give is for you to understand your requirements and goals concerning fuel, fuel additives, and lubricants. Don’t purchase additives on a whim or hope they may fortuitously effect some change, as this is a surefire way to disappointment. Work out what you are trying to achieve: rectify a running issue, protect the fuel system or engine, maintain a clean running system to prevent future problems, reduce wear, increase power, improve fuel economy, improve fuel quality, or many of these combined, etc. Then complete your own research or consult with a professional to match the correct products for your needs with an understanding of what the products actually do and how this translates into measurable results for you.

To summarise, there are legitimate circumstances when additives offer genuine benefits (when chosen correctly and matched to actual requirements) and other times when they become a waste of money. They become a waste of money when users misunderstand what they are actually buying versus what they are trying to achieve.

In the follow-up article, we are going to break this down further by revealing why results can be so inconsistent when using additives so that you can make an informed decision as to whether your vehicle will benefit or not from their use. We will also reveal some pitfalls, the concept of Negative versus Positive Gain, and testing protocols so that you, a consumer, mechanic or fleet operator, etc., can accurately measure your MPG improvements.

If you require any expert advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of my team or I will be pleased to help.

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Fuel Addtives

Should Fuel Additives be Added to an Empty Tank?

May 20, 2013 Andy 10 Comments

I am often asked how and when fuel additives should be added. With an empty or full tank of fuel? Should I wait until it’s down to a quarter of a tank? Etc.

The reality is that it doesn’t matter how much fuel is currently in the tank. The key is to ensure that regardless of the current fuel level, whether nearly empty or three-quarters full when you administer the additive, fill up on top immediately afterward.

Doing so will ensure that none of the fuel additive becomes trapped in the filler neck. Filling up on top afterward will ensure that the entire additive is washed down into the tank. Furthermore, most additives require diluting with a full tank of fuel hence filling up immediately afterward is necessary.

Some feel uncomfortable with the inconvenience of using additives at the gas station. For this, we suggest filling up with fuel and a 5-liter jerry can. Drive home, put in the additive, and then top up with fuel from the jerry can. If you live close to the gas station, don’t entirely fill the tank to the top; leave a little for the additive and fuel from the jerry can.

Contrary to popular belief, additives do not need to be added before filling up with fuel to mix. This is only necessary with fuel storage tanks. Most additives mix instantly anyway, and a moving vehicle provides sufficient agitation to complete this process.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of my team or I will be pleased to help.

1758

Fuel Addtives

Are Fuel Additives Safe?

March 10, 2010 Andy 102 Comments

Due to an increasing number of inquiries concerning fuel additive safety and vehicle manufacturers’ propaganda, I updated this article. Below is V2.0.

Are fuel system cleaners and fuel additives safe for my engine?

This is a question I am asked all too often, and I would like to put your mind at rest from the outset. From all my experience and testing, I have yet to find a commercial fuel-based engine cleaning product that has resulted in any form of short, medium, or long-term damage to a fuel system or engine when used per the manufacturer’s instructions. Sure, many products are poor quality or don’t deliver as promised, but the main commercial ones I have tested are at least safe to use. This includes engines with superchargers, turbochargers, the latest particulate filters, and high-pressure fuel systems. There are rare stories of failures or issues, but in all cases I have examined, they resulted from an underlying problem unrelated to additive use.

Please note that this is not a license for you to put any rubbish in your fuel tank! I only recommend cleaners using effective and proven ingredients. Providing the recommended dosages are not seriously abused, the cleaners I recommend are no more dangerous than the fuel itself. Some forget how corrosive gasoline is!

So why do Bill, Joe, and Agnes on ABC automotive forum advise against the use of additives? Why do my main dealer and car manual insist on no fuel additives? Why is there a warning sticker near the filler cap?

Very simple:

Firstly, ignorance. In any life endeavor, knowledge is power; it always has been and always will be. Combine this with the fact that people feel compelled to help and contribute regardless if the help or contribution is good or poor. When knowledge is lacking the void is generally filled with incorrect (usually a reiteration of someone else’s opinion/beliefs) or fabricated information (nothing more than guessing). Thus, poor quality help or contribution then follows.

In this modern age, the internet forum has become the perfect platform for all to contribute, feel needed, take on the role of “expert,” and help others. Some advice is good, and some are poor. Unfortunately with fuel additives, some are falling for the negative PR, parroting what someone else has misunderstood/misquoted or just second guessing.

Please note that this article is about the safety of additive use, not efficacy. I’m sure many are aggrieved with some additives’ performance and spurious claims, but that is a different conversation for another day.

Let’s look at this in more detail and help fill that void. Do you know the difference between standard and premium pump diesel fuels? Additional detergent package (usually DW-10 tested) and 2- Ethylhexyl Nitrate (2-EHN) cetane booster – that’s all. 2-EHN is the worldwide standard for raising cetane. DW-10 is the primary injector dirty-up and clean-up test procedure for measuring the performance of diesel fuel detergent packages in Europe.

Now let’s examine a diesel conditioner I routinely recommend for some diesel applications – AR6900-D MAX

It contains:

Latest DW-10 proven detergent package
2-EHN
Ester diesel fuel system lubricant
Combustion catalyst
Water handling, dispersant, demulsifier, stabiliser and anti-corrosion pack.

All proven and tested functions.

What is meant by “proven”? Is it guaranteed to perform? No, guaranteed to perform AND safe to use. By proven, it means that it is ALSO no-harms tested! Reputable fuel conditioners use no-harms tested ingredients. These ingredients and functions go through rigorous tests to ensure they are safe for the intended application.

As demonstrated above, some of what you find in diesel conditioners are already in premium fuels, except with additives; you pay less and get much more for your money. Every premium pump diesel uses 2-EHN for cetane index increase. Most diesel fuel conditioners use 2-EHN, too, as the primary ingredient!

Many diesel conditioners, AR6900-D MAX, included were blended for and comply with EN 590 specification diesel fuel. In other words, EN 590 pump diesel + AR6900-D MAX is still EN 590 compliant. You are still using fuel the vehicle manufacturer has stipulated you must use for that engine. This makes it much more difficult for manufacturers to blame additive use as the cause of a running or mechanical issue, although some still do, given a chance.

They are many other products too: Wynns, STP, Millers Ecomax, Redex, Cataclean, Liqui moly, Forte, BG and so on. Although they vary in efficacy, none of them will harm the engine.

I accept that I am in the business of selling fuel additives and need to make a living. However, before you question my motives, please understand this. I spend many hours in any given week helping others, mainly over the telephone, to resolve vehicle performance or running difficulties. Some calls can easily last 15-30 minutes for a product on which my company may make £3. Furthermore, less than 50% of calls result in a sale because I make it very clear to the customer when I think an additive will not help or is of no value.

Sometimes there is a lot of negativity with additives because of a misunderstanding of the ACTUAL functions and benefits or the overt misselling compounded by ridiculous claims. There are correct circumstances for additive use and times when they are simply unnecessary. Again, this is a different subject for another day (See the do additives work article).

There is also the risk of not using additives. Ask one of the thousands of satisfied customers, not just ours) that have used quality cleaners to resolve running issues, warning lights, power loss, engine cutouts, etc. Ask them which is safer, fuel cleaner, or engine jumping into a limp-home mode during an overtake maneuver. A bit dramatic, I accept, but still valid.

There are now a good proportion of fuel systems and engines that are MORE at risk from not using a quality regular use fuel conditioner (or periodic system clean) or at least using premium fuel to help give the fuel system and emission control systems a fighting chance.

Not a single day goes by where I don’t receive a request for help from someone that doesn’t use additives, and now the fuel system, engine, turbo, EGR, DPF, or a combination of these are causing running difficulties. Not a single day.

So what about the Main Dealers?

This too, is very simple – draconian thinking and revenue protection. Unlike in the US and other parts of the world, manufacturers (fronted through their main dealers) have a vested interest in maintaining a “replace with new policy.” For example, suppose the main dealer plugs in their diagnostics computer and registers a faulty diesel fuel pump or faulty injectors. In that case, they must advise the customer that they require a new pump or injectors.

I have seen a bill for almost £3000 to supply and fit four new diesel injectors from one of our customers! The fact that injectors and pumps can be reconditioned or that a good quality cleaner will resolve the problem 80% of the time is irrelevant. Main dealers have little choice, and they risk falling out of favor with the manufacturer or worse, losing their franchise if they deviate from the “replace with new” policy. If you accidentally put a stain on the carpet, would you replace it without trying to clean it first?

Another reason is risk mitigation. Manufacturers and dealers are simply protecting themselves from customers that may foolishly put a harmful substance in the fuel tank, i.e., bleach (and I’m not joking) or putting fuel additives in with the oil or visa-versa. Hence, a straightforward “no additives” policy.

Last but not least, you’ll be surprised to learn that many manufacturers already use additives. That’s right, but only when it suits them. For example, a prominent European petrochemical company provided an aggressive fuel system cleaner to a well know European vehicle manufacturer because they were facing hundreds of thousands of potential warranty claims from carbon build-up on diesel fuel injectors. The additive was administered to all affected engines on a recall or during the next scheduled service, and customers were none the wiser.

So why is it different in other countries? Unlike in the UK, the US main dealers have a strong influence over the manufacturers. In many cases, the main dealer will call the shots. Unfortunately, the UK and the EU, in general, are a bit behind.

Fortunately, the law is on our side (one of the few advantages of being in the EU), and we are starting to witness a change with manufacturers and franchised dealers. It is doubtful that a dealer would even know you were using an additive unless you told them as it takes serious equipment to detect additives. You are at greater risk of a dealer refusing a warranty claim due to using contaminated (untreated) fuel than using an additive to fortify the fuel or clean the system.

I hope this helps clear up the matter for our customers. If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of our team will be pleased to help.

1264

DPF Cleaning & Maintenance, Fuel System Cleaning

Product Advice Page

March 20, 2009 Andy 294 Comments

This post is for product advice, feedback, questions and answers

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